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ron warner
2025-08-21 12:37:00
It was fairly easy to install. I used a 120-volt impact wrench to remove it, and it came out easily. The smell went away fairly fast. I was surprised at how the old Anode rod was eaten up. I use groundwater from a submersible pump, and there is a lot of clay in the ground.
John H
2025-06-17 15:55:21
Awesome product. My existing anode did not have adequate space to replace it using a one piece anode. This kit came with the socket needed to replace the anode, the jointed anode allowing it to fit into the water heater with limited space and even the Teflon tape and instructions. Highly recommend. I changed my first anode in less then 30 minutes. Nice complete kit.
Mend22
2025-06-03 16:16:07
Finally got around to replacing the anode rod in my Rheem gas water heater. Old one came out pretty easy with a simple breaker bar and the included socket (my cordless impact couldn’t break it). I ended up cutting the last section of the new rod off as it bottomed out in the tank, but I ran into a problem threading it in.The space for the socket to fit around the head of the rod was very tight and impossible to start threading by hand. I tried just using the socket and my hand and thought I got a good thread, so (and here is where I screwed up) I reached for the impact and ugga dugga’d it a few times and then sent it. I didn’t have a good thread and marred up the threads on the tank and new rod. I ran to the hardware store for a 3/4†14 NPT tap and was able to tap the threads and get the new rod seated and threaded in. No leaks! Smell seems to have gone away, but I am pretty nose blind to it at this point. Waiting for a visitor to see what their nose says.Great product! Just be careful and ALWAYS use hand tools when reinstalling.
Dattesh Patel
2025-05-14 17:40:11
I replaced the 10 years old rod from my water heater with this since i have a limited room on the top. It was easy to replace and now there is no sulfer smell when we operate the faucets in the house.
Hezekiah
2025-03-29 11:39:41
I didn’t have a terrible rotten egg smell, just a slight odor in the morning. My water heater, a 2003 model, was 21 years old and had never had its anode rod changed. I work at a commercial plumbing office, so I wanted to research the different types and change it myself and see the process. I concluded if you have well water you do want a rod with zinc.Using a breaker bar was ineffective on my 40-gallon heater; 40 gallons of water simply wasn’t heavy enough to resist 21 years of hard well water. I left the heater full but released pressure by running water at a fixture. I used a Ridgid battery-powered ¾" impact wrench. After about five good whacks, it popped free. While some of the anode rod may be knocked off during this process, it seemed a better approach than trying to prevent the heater from spinning. I think if you are changing the anode rod after 5 years, I would not use an impact, after 20, there is no anode left to worry about. Somewhere in between, you’ll have to decide, but you can always try a breaker bar first, and impact second (borrow from a friend or look for a cheap corded one, used). If I hadn’t had the impact wrench, I would have disconnected the heater from the pipes to avoid leaks.Once I got it free, I tried using a ratchet, but the heater still wanted to spin. So, I switched back to the impact wrench and, after another five whacks, the nut was a third to halfway out. I finished with the ratchet.My water heater didn’t want to drain, even with 40-50 psi applied. I recommend using a Water Heater Sediment Buster, which connects to an air pump while the heater is draining to help break up sediment. I haven’t used one yet, but the videos I’ve seen are promising. I would advise against using turbo tank cleaners that connect to a drill; stick with the air method.For cleaning, remove the old anode rod, cut off the tail, and use it as a plug to prevent water from splashing out of the heater. Make sure to turn off the water heater at the breaker to avoid running it empty. Then, open the drain valve and let it run until the water is clear. Use a bucket at the end of the hose (or your hands) to catch the water and check for sediment.For older heaters, turn off the water inlet, let it drain completely, then pull the anode nut to allow air in. You can then spray down the heater walls through the opening and flush again.To disinfect, I recommend hydrogen peroxide, which is generally safer than chlorine. However, bleach (which is just diluted pool chlorine) can work. Add some bleach, insert the new anode rod, and fill the tank. Once full, turn the heater back on. Run hot water at each faucet until you smell chlorine, indicating chlorinated water in the pipes. Let it sit overnight, then run the faucets in the morning until the chlorine smell dissipates.
Paul Cozad
2025-02-17 16:50:10
Very happy with the product.Very easy to install in tight areas.
RB
2025-01-07 10:50:59
Water Odor was eliminated within the next 24 hours after installation. Collapsable structure helped a lot. It works great - before I had a nasty egg odor every morning. after installation - disappeared.
Mark
2024-11-30 18:15:44
The original Anode rod was very hard to remove until I used an impact driver. That’s the only way to go. New rod had to be trimmed, but so far is working great. Instructions were clear and directed me to flush the tank with hydrogen peroxide. No sulfur smell after a few days so far!
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