Deal at $20 where others wanted to charge twice as muchImpossible to fit or manage Harmonic Balancer without this19mm central nut wants 180 ft lbs via the 1/2 inch square fitting so be sure to have required torque wrench/breaker bar / extension(s) On Hand or buy it here. AutoZone also lends out some such itemsIdeally this nut is supposed to be tightened with an air wrench what I do not have hence this.So outer member holds the flywheel+crank from turning as the nut gets tightened.I did need to use the 1/2 inch square shaft of the flywheel holder with a 18" long bar 'jammed' against thenearby cross-member to stop the engine+crank Turningas I used my foot against the breaker bar attached to the 19" nut to shove til it 'clicked' at its upper limit of 180 ft lbsWould suggest going back after a few dozen miles and re checkingIncidentally- to get the serpentine belt on, get it as far around the flyhwheel as you can then force the crank+flywheel to turn SLOWLY clockwise (Natural direction)using the breaker bar til the belt 'pops' on

I bought this to help with a water pump and timing belt change. This tool is a must have! It fit snug and did its job! The water pump Installed perfectly on my 03 Odyssey with 197k miles. I chose not to purchase the kit and save a hundred bucks because my pulleys and tensioner seemed to be in excellent shape. Replaced the timing belt as well, even though the old one seemed to be in good repair anyways. I tossed the gasket on the water pump and used the "Right Stuff" gasket maker instead. I also replaced plugs.Suggestions:-Buy THIS crank pulley tool (It will make your life easier and you won't risk damaging your engine).- Take out spark plugs when adjusting cams.- Buy thread lock for crankshaft pulley bolt- Buy thread anti-seize for plugs.- After belt install, turn crankshaft pulley "righty- tighty" two times around and ensure you still have TDC.- Use Walmart cheap Brake Cleaner to clean up area after disassembly.- Watch lots of videos on YouTube to understand lining up cams to TDC.***CLEAN EGR PORTS in the intake manifold.I completed the water pump and timing belt job. I also replaced spark plugs since I had to remove them to turn the cams to TDC. The old NGK laser plugs were nasty too. I assumed after putting in new plugs, new pump, and new belt, this puppy would purr (The vehicle ran ok before I started this job. The only reason I was changing the water pump is because I noticed coolant on my A/C compressor while doing my last oil change).I fired up the can for the fist time and the idle seemed to be ok, but I could hear the all to common tap coming from the rear valve cover area. This is usually just the solinoid, but it did appear to be a little louder than usual. No check engine lights were on, and while I was driving the car around there were no signs of any problems.I thought the tapping was just the car trying to readjust to the new parts, oil, and plugs I installed. However, after driving about 50 miles, the idle got worse, and shortly after, my engine light and tcs light came on at the same time. The tapping was really loud now, and I was afraid I had damaged something in my cam shaft when adjusting timing. I pulled codes and had P0300, P0302, P305, P306, and P1399. Although the vehicle performance when driving was still good, I had no clue what happened. After reading several posts and watching videos, I decided to check and see if I had a bad coil or spark plug since plugs were loosely packed and out of package upon arrival from Amazon. I simply unplugged the coils to see which ones didn't effect the engine when unplugged. Of course the middle cylinders 2 and 5 were hard to tell because they are in the middle and don't really shake the engine as much as the end cylinders do(I bet many people misdiagnose this and commonly purchase two new coils and plugs which were not really the problem). It was hard for me to tell if the engine was missing or not on 2 and 5 because the idle was so bad in the first place. I even listened with a stethoscope, and heard weird metal clanking noises and tapping in the rear valve cover. I finally went to the next easiest check, and that was to unscrew and check the intake manifold cover. Super simple and took literally 2 minutes to pull off. I was SHOCKED at what I saw. I always use Chevron Gas, or have Techron additive available when I don't have a choice. I know this keeps my fuel system clean, but when I pulled the cover, it was a black carbon mess. My EGR ports were almost completely blocked. My engine was suffocating, and I had no idea. I spent an hour cleaning, scraping, vacuuming, and wiping carbon off the manifold.I put the cleaned cover and gasket back on, and the car sounds like it did when we first purchased it. I still need to do a valve adjustment at some point, but for now, I'm leaving it alone. I hope she is good for another 100k miles.I also switched to synthetic Mobile1 0w20 and Fram Synthetic Filter. I will try to get 6k before next oil change. I have always done the Fram HM and Valvoline HM non synthetic.

I like the next day service. Vehicle was down, tool came next day in the morning, was able to repair and all is well

what a great invention. makes easy work of torqueing the crank bolt on honda 3 .5L v6 . great job of holding th pulley with the use of a 1/2" drive pull handle. fits like a glove on the pulley hex and sturdy robust tool is built for this specific task. a must for working on honda's !! highly recommend. worth the money.

If u are mechanically inclined and work on cars, this is a must have. I might end up buying another one as a backup. We’ll have to see how long it lasts but I’ve put it thru some work. It’s helped immensely with removing the crankshaft bolts where I just put this on my impact and it comes off after a short battle. MUCH easier than using a breaker bar or torque wrench for removal.

If you need to remove the crankshaft pulley on a Honda, this tool is essential. One bit of advice - don't waste your time with a breaker bar. Instead, go buy or borrow a high torque impact wrench. I struggled for hours with a break bar to no avail. I only got the bolt off after switching to an impact wrench with this weighted socked.

Worked as it should

The tool was definitely cast in good steel, that is why 3 stars, but it does not fit inside the pulley without being hammered in and then under high torque (what it is supposedly designed for), it pops out! The ½” drive for the breaker bar is not cast to correct form and size causing the breaker bar to get stuck and I fear under full load it would strip or break the ½” drive, had to almost pound it out.

Me sirvió perfectamente para retirar la polea de un Acura tl 2005

Queda algo floja pero aguanto bien la presión

Excelente articulo

Se ve de buena calidad y resistencia hay que usarlo para verificar que tal resiste

Exelente herramienta me facilito el retiro de la polea damper