Blue Demon BDTP-125-01T Triple Play Low Temp Aluminum-Zinc Brazing Rod 1/8' x 18' 1 Lb Tube,

This low-temperature aluminum brazing rod is economical, easy to use, and effective (IF you follow the directions). I used this rod to seam braze 75 aluminum joints (300 total brazes) that had broken on an aluminum pontoon boat canopy frame that had collapsed during a storm. Most of the joints were 1" x 1" aluminum square tube" with heavier duty/guage rectangular aluminum at the base of the frame. This fluxless aluminum rod worked well for this purpose, but only when the instructions were copiously followed, which, in essence, are: 1) Secure your joint (vice grips, clamps, etc.) and copiously clean all aluminum surfaces to be brazed with a large new stainless steel ("SS") brush (buy one large brush and 2 or 3 small brushes), 2) get a good "handheld" torch (I tried several and found "Mag – Torch" the best) with a hose (sold separately from the torch for about $20) that connects the torch to a "map gas" cylinder (hotter than propane and available in all home improvement stores), 3) frequently use your small stainless steel brush on the area to be brazed during the heating and brazing process to remove impurities ("oxides"). if you don't brush, your braze will be significantly weakened or may not adhere at all. 4) frequently test the heat of your metal by running the aluminum rod over the joint area. When the rod begins to easily melt (from the heat of the rod against the hot metal only- absolutely not from the direct heat of the torch) deflect the torch flame away from the joint and begin "tinning" the joint ( tinning = applying a light coat of melted aluminum from the rod to the surfaces you abraded with your small stainless steel brush). 5) Put the flame back on the joint for 3 to 5 seconds to be sure that the tinning adheres, then remove the torch to let the tinning coo/solidify for 5 to 10 seconds. 6) Use your stainless steel brush again to clean the oxides from the tinned area, 7) reheat the joint to where your aluminum will again melt the rod and apply a generous coat of melted aluminum to the tinned area of your joint, 8) finish the joint braze with about 4 or 5 seconds more heat from the torch to increase final adherence of the melted aluminum to the joint. 9) If you see impurities (oxides) in your braze, don't be afraid to run your small brush through your braze to clean out the impurities to strengthen your joint. This "brush through" may require you to melt a little more aluminum on your joint but the joint will be stronger for it. In sum, secure the work, use new stainless steel brushes to frequently clean work, metal not torch must melt aluminum brazing rod, "tin" all brushed areas, apply final braze coat, and always finish with more heat for adherence.Practice on a few joints before doing your finish work. Everything will seem very awkward at first as you juggle the torch, the brush, the rod, and the correct heat. Within about 5 to 10 joints you will feel like a professional. If you cut corners though and don't get the work hot enough or don't frequently keep your joint clean of the oxides with the brush your brazes will look pretty but won't hold and your time will be wasted. Good luck!

Works good. You have to grind the aluminum to remove the out layer before this will work. Must be done right away before metal oxidizes again.If you can't get it to flowmout smooth and stick if because you aren't getting the aluminum hot enough. You need a big torch tip and lots of gas. The flame turns red when it's getting hot enough.Watch their how to video.

I used these zinc-alluminum alloy brazing rods when I had to make my own flashing around a skylight. I used regular galvanized flashing, and these alloy brazing rods did the trick. They will braze both aluminum & zinc. But aluminum flashing is too thin & melts too easily. Galvanized flashing works OK.Here are a few tips:Flux is unnecessary, but If the surface is dull or dirty, brush clean with a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush. Regular wire brushes won't work.Prepare each surface by "tinning," which means to melt a thin coating of brazing alloy on the surfaces PRIOR to actual brazing. This is critical for a good strong joint.A regular propane torch is sufficiently hot, but a broader flame works better than a pencil-tip flame.Always heat the metal & let the metal melt the brazing rod. Don't melt the brazing rod with the flame itself.The trick is to keep the temperature around 750 F. Too hot and the metal can scorch & warp. Too cool & the brazing rod will not melt or bond.Use clamps to hold surfaces together. This alloy material will fill small gaps, but it works best if the gaps are tight.Don't be in a hurry. Practice on scraps first.

Despite the package not sealed neat and proper, all 22 rods were there. I say the word were because within 20 minutes of receiving them I put 1 to work on a couple things to test, they work just fine. I'm not taking stars off because the package it came in doesn't mean anything, it's the fact the product is there and works. Good value for the money if you have a need for that many rods.Just a little edit and it doesn't look very good because my butane torch wouldn't settle down, but the rods are good enough to join 2 pieces of side can together so you know it's a good product...

This product did not work for me. However, the cast galvanized aluminum I tried to repair with it is not an easy metal to fix. After much cleaning with Acetone and stainless steel brushing the Blue demon Triple Play would not adhere to the aluminum. I used an entire new canister of Bernzomatic propane in the attempted process! Negative result could be due to my application or the galvanized aluminum itself!

I have a cast aluminum handle on the power feed of my milling machine. It broke in half an I used a similar rod from a common 'freight' tool store to repair it, but the joint failed soon after in normal use. Even though I had used a small stainless wire brush while trying to tin the cast surfaces, there were large areas that had not tinned. I figured correctly that there was not enough flux on those rods. With the Blue Demon rods, they seem to have more flux, and rapidly tinned the surfaces without the fuss I had to use before. After tinning the ends, I put the parts in alignment on a fire brick, clamped them down, and reheated the parts, adding enough braze to have it stand proud of the surface. Then it was a job of filing and sanding the extra braze off, leaving a slightly gray line. I have now tried to stress the handle to make it break again and it is holding great. Kudos to Blue Demon for a superior product!

Excellent Product, Easy to use, Excellent Performance.

Haven't used yet but the package showed up and a couple rods fell out of the box. The box had no holes nor did it have any packaging materials.Description says about 22 rods I got about 12.

De las 3 marcas que e probado en este tipo de producto, esta es con la que mejores resultados e tenido y con la que menos e batallado a la hora de estar aplicando.

It’s not working . Not goodDon’t buy. I lost time and money.

i dont understand why the big blue demon needs gauntlets and a mask???? - hes meant to be a demon, used to hellfire and flashes of lightning.....!!! - oh, the rods work fine - nice price for a big load of long rods. there was a quality blue demon sticker in my tube of rods - fun item but shows pride in their product and theyre made across the pond in the USA!!

I tried quite a few things and this stuff just adheres to aluminum like nothing else. No flux or prep other than a sand and it will take to cast aluminum. You need a lot of heat to flow smoothly and it would be nice if the sticks were thinner for detail work but great nonetheless! It is harder than the aluminum you bond to also.

Billig ( gebraucht ,sehr gut)Prime geliefert ,dauerte etwas länger da das aus England kam ( zoll..)Wenn man weiß wie man es machen muss *ein top Produkt sehr schöne schweißnaht, dicht.Ich habe damit meine regenrinne am Haus repariert.* das Material muss warm gemacht werden ( z.b Gasbrenner) und nicht die schweißstange!!Öfters testen ob das Material warm genug ist ,in dem man mit der Elektrode darüber reibt, damm Flamme weg und mit der Elektrode zu machen