I put off installing this clamp to fix my exhaust manifold leak on the rear drivers side of my 2012 Yukon XL 5.3l for almost a year due to all the reviews I read about the install. However once the leak got worse I decided it was time to tackle the job. I did a lot of research to figure out the best way to install the clamp and I will share those tips in this review in hopes it helps others. Flex head ratcheting wrenches help greatly with this install. I found it easiest to tackle this job from both the top of the engine and below on a creeper. If your broken exhaust manifold bolt is protruding through the manifold you will have to grind it down flush but this was not the case with mine.1. Taper the ends of the two bolts that screw into the head to allow them to be started easier. To do this find a bolt or even use the threaded portion of the clamp and install on the bolt so that it can fix any threads that get damaged during the taper process. Next grind the first few threads on the end of the bolt giving the end a nice taper so that the bolts are easier to start. When you remove the nut from the bolt (or clamp) that you installed before grinding it should fix the threads on the end that may have become damaged. Test fit the nut back on before proceeding to ensure the bolt is not damaged and still threads properly.2. If you have a ground strap installed into one of the holes in head the clamp goes into you will need to relocate this. I removed the bolt from the top of the engine and the ground strap and relocated it to threaded hole above the exhaust manifold in the head.3. Jack up the front of vehicle and put it on proper jack stands. If your vehicle is 4wd remove the front of the front drive shaft by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the u-joint caps on. Ensure you mark the u-joint and cradle so that you can put it back together the same way it came apart to prevent premature wear. Once the bolts are removed you can push the driveshaft back and then swing it to the side a few inches to give you room. I also removed the o2 sensor and used a special socket for this which helps greatly. Now you should have room to reach your arm up and feel the holes in the head the clamp bolts will be installed in.4. I installed the top bolt of the clamp from the top of the engine. I removed the plastic engine cover and then was able to lay on top of the engine using both hands on either side to get the bolt started in the first hole. Use some anti-seize on the bolts that go into the heads since the heads are aluminum.5. I installed the bottom clamp bolt into the head from below the engine on a creeper. You must blindly reach up and get the bolt started which can be challenging. Also used anti-seize.6. I tightened the top bolt of the clamp in the head from above the engine with a flex head ratcheting wrench. I tightened the bottom bolt of the clamp from below the engine on a creeper.7. Use high temp loctite on bolt that pushes on the manifold and install from the top. Don't torque it down to tight as you will re-tighten after the engine is brought up to operating temp.8. Re-install the o2 sensor and front drive shaft. Note the u-joint bolts don't get torqued much so look up the factory specs and use a torque wrench. Install the plastic engine cover and lower the vehicle off the jacks.9. Take the vehicle for a test drive and get the engine temp up to normal operating temperature. If your exhaust manifold gasket is not damaged too bad the clamp should have fixed or greatly reduced your leak.10. While the engine is still hot tighten the bolt that pushes agains the exhaust manifold since things have gotten hot and likely stretched a bit.It took about 2 hours to install this clamp but it did fix my exhaust manifold leak. I think Dorman could have included tapered bolts to make the install much easier however given the cheap price and the fact it worked I am giving it five stars and highly recommend to others dealing with a GM exhaust manifold leak.

Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing.FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off.Dorman 917-107 (This product) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front.Dorman 917-142 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front.The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part.Top bolt:Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the drivers side rear (917-107). As you will read from other reviews, it is in fact a pain in the butt. The heads are so close to the fire wall I was left with some scratched up knuckles from holding the fire was back to try to get the top bolt threaded. Note used some anti seize on the bolts. Anyways, you do want to start with the top bolt and come from the top of the engine. My truck (2009 Silverado 2500HD), already had a bolt with a ground strap attached to it (I believe that one was a 14mm, the bolts for this kit is a 9/16"). I removed that bolt (easy part) then you have to do a dance of holding the bracket with the ground strap, pushing the fire wall back and trying to find the hole (Come on, we've all been there) for the top bolt. It will depend on what vehicle you are working on as to where to position your body, but for my applicable I was basically sitting in the spare battery tray (where the second battery would go for a Duramax diesel). I have also seen pictures of some people laying on top of the engine. Anyways, it took my on the order of 10-15 minutes of doing this dance to finally get the treads started on the top bolt (by hand, no tools yet). I then started to tighten the bolt using a 9/16" ratcheting wrench (This tool is pretty key in saving time). There is not enough room with the bracket, bolt and fire wall to fit a socket wrench down there, so a normal box wrench is really you only choice and having a ratcheting one makes this WAY easier than a standard box wrench that you would have to line up basically a 1/8th of a turn because that is all the room you have. If you don't have a ratcheting 9/16" wrench, you are on Amazon... Add it to your cart. I did not tighten it all the way, you want to leave it loose to the bracket is still kinda dangling for the bottom bolt. Thankfully with the top bolt threaded in, it does align the bottom hole of the bracket to the proper mounting position for the bottom bolt.Bottom bolt:I have head mixed ways of getting to the bottom bolt, some come from the top others the bottom. For my application there was absolutely no way to get at it from the top, so I went from the bottom. If you have beef cake arms, I really don't know how you will do it, but I have pretty slim arms and had just enough arm length to wedge it between the exhaust down pipe and torsion spring. Its a very awkward position, but I was able to get the bolt threaded. I then used a 9/16" socket with 2 swivels and about 24" worth of extensions to tighten the bolt because the location is to hard to get to... To confirm your thoughts, YES it did look sketchy but it works. There is no way to get a toque wrench either bolts, so get them pretty snug but don't reef on them. If you strip the threads or sheer the bolt then you have just bought yourself into a head repair, which is the whole reason to buy this band aid fix anyways. After the bottom one was snug, I went back to the top bolt and snugged that one down with the ratcheting wrench.Lastly the final bolt you want to use some high temp loctite and torque to spec (I think it was like 18 lbs-ft). That one is simple enough and straight forward. After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing.The whole process took about an hour.Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.

Have an old GM 5.7 Typical broken rear manifold bolts. I use a welder to tag onto the end of the bolt and spin them out. Work most of the time. One this engine I just could not get a good bind the rearmost driver side bolt, broken off well below the head.This clamp went on fairly easy and is working great to keep the exhaust tight and sealed, until sometime in the distant future when I am prepared to pull the head.This is a temporary-permanent fix. ;)Note: it is easiest to install from the bottom, underneath the truck. Remove the O2 sensor, remove the front yoke of the driveshaft and slide aside, remove the firewall heat shield. You’ve then got plenty of room to finger the two bolts into the back of the head.

Great product. 03 Yukon awd .Fixed my annoying exhaust leak (rear drivers ). You will need some anti seize for the two bolts going in the back. Some thread locker for the bolt going to the manifold. An assortment of 14mm wrenches as the rear bolts are a nightmare to get started and tightened. Have the bolt that goes against the manifold just started to thread. Its not fun to get it in once you have the rear bolts in. You will invent new swear words before the job is complete. But in the end you will succeed and no more tick, tick.

Even though it's said that it will not fit.So if you have a GMT360 SUV with a 5.3 LM4 engine, it will fit.BTW: The installation was very easy, but I did it when I got the transmission and catalytic converters out.

Was easy to install and fast shipping

I read a zillion reviews and watched several youtube videos on installing this I KNEW IT WAS A CHALLENGE...however... it was way harder than I had envisioned.On DAY 1..I tried to do it without help and wasted 4 VERY frustrating hours and some seriously scraped arms, fingers etc.On DAY 2.. I removed the front drive shaft from the front diff and moved it aside, no need to pull it from the transfer case and most importantly got help (my wife),, she worked from the top maneuvering the clamp so I could insert the bottom bolt (from underneath the truck), that took about 30 minutes.Once the first bolt was in place she used a stick to push the heat shield back as I swung the clamp) it was already on the lower bolt) and into position. That was another 30 minutes of painful contortions and then it was installed... they were installed and tightened from below... another NEAR IMPOSSIBLE task...I just tightened all I could manage with A 14MM BOX END RATCHETING WRENCH.Then up top, installed the tensioning bolt and was shocked to see it push the manifold in at least 1/4 inch, maybe more... LEAK SOLVED!There are references to torque values BUT there is NO WAY a torque wrench can fit on the bolts so just tightened the he-- out of the back ones as well as the tensioning bolt. Also no way to get anti-seize on the back bolts... since the truck is already 20 yrs old I suspect this repair will outlive it.