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FridayParts 12V Fuel ShutOff Solenoid 83981012 7167-620B RE54064 RE22744 for New Holland Ford 675E TS100 555E TS110 655E 575E TS115 655E HW320 555E 4610N TS90 575E 675E

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$13.99

$ 6 .99 $6.99

In Stock
  • Voltage: 12V
  • Part Number: RE54064, RE22744, 449679A1, J904630, 83981012, E8NN9D278AA, 28480007, 7167620B, 7185900W, 74083, K957417, F7779916, 3904630
  • Compatible for Ford Backhoe: 555C, 655C (11/1988 - 8/1993), 555D, 655D, 675D (9/1993>), 755B (1987 - 1/1993), 545C, 545D, 555E, 575D, 575E, 655E, 675E; Ford Tractor: 250C, 260C, 276V
  • Application: Compatible for New Holland Tractor: TB100, TB110, TB80, TB90, TS100, TS115, TS90; New Holland Skid Steer: L865, L88S, LS190, LX865, L783


Part Number: RE54064, RE22744, 449679A1, J904630, 83981012, E8NN9D278AA, 28480007, 7167620B, 7185900W, 74083, K957417, F7779916, 3904630


Hiperf2007
2025-07-01 13:44:34
I bought this because my 1845c died and would only start but then stall. I figured it was electrical so I started following wires. I found a bad spot about 2 inches away from this solenoid. I fixed that and had great 12v but it still wouldn't stay running. After two weeks I chased it down to a tiny nylon filter in the CAV injection pump actually causing the issue. It was completely plugged up after 32 years. I cleaned off the filter and all its good again. It starts and stop as it should. This review isn't much about the solenoid itself other than it does work as intended. I am not back to an instant start and stop when I turn the key. If you are debating on this being your problem make sure to check the supply voltage going to it first. Wiggle the wires good and make sure you are not dropping volts. Mine did but apparently wasn't why it wouldn't stay running. These things take 9volts to pop open.If you have a 1845c diesel with a CAV pump make sure to check this screen. Remove the rear fuel feed line, remove the main nut with a 15/16 wrench or socket, CAREFULLY pull out the spring with your fingers or a needle nose pilers, take a pocket screw driver and locate the guts down in the pump and put pressure to HOLD them DOWN, DO NOT LET THEM COME UP! At this point while holding the center stuff down you can take a 90 degree pick and pop the screen up. I popped a tiny hole in my to pop it loose. Mine was plugged with black stuff. Along with that large spring I had some poppet valve stick to the bottom while pulling it out. I cleaned everything up and put the screen back in. I used a tiny little dab of grease on the bottom of the spring to hold that poppet valve to the bottom of the spring while reinstalling that and then reinstalled the cap. When though the bleeding process and it fired up. It's not hard to do.Bleeding wise I removed the fuel filter and made sure it was full. If not, make sure the pump is not on the cam lobe (or crank the engine for a split second) and pump until it comes out the bleeder there. Look for all fuel, no air. Next look up the CAV pump bleeder ports. I cracked the bottom and pumped out the air, then cracked the top and pumped out the air. Next I opened all the nozzle lines and cranked the engine over for about 15 seconds. I then gave it a 2 minutes rest and went another 15 seconds for a total of 2 minutes until I had tons of fuel all over the engine. It started and died once, but then on the second try and it was good to go. Hope information on that secret little filter helps somebody NOT have to spend $1200 on replacing the injection pump.
Dan
2025-06-17 18:52:07
works
blakedj1
2025-01-06 15:43:25
Was skeptical at first ordering something like this from Amazon. It was an exact replacement and worked perfectly. much cheaper than the OEM.
Randal Menscer
2024-11-13 14:37:05
Exactly as expected
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