This is a handy tool and great for first time users. The instructions are very helpful, tool comes with a dovetail bit as well, so no need to purchase any other items suggested when purchasing the tool. The alignment tools provided with this tool take some patience to set up, but you need to take your time with this detailed joint if you want a tight joint. I did experiment on the joint on scrap pieces of wood as suggested to make sure I got the desired tightness and to learn to work with each of the alignment components.I was building shelves (12-inch wide boards), so I wish I had purchased a tool that could handle the full board width. The slot centering tool provided with this tool is very handy and works well, but the limited width required I reset the tool multiple times for each joint.Overall, I am very pleased with this purchase - it is good for joint widths less than 4-inches. If I was to make more shelves, I would invest in the wider unit.

After 2-3 practices on cut off stock, It works well. Like any other tool, the more you use it, the better you get. When using harder stock than Walnut, like Purple Heart, when cutting pins be sure to listen to the router. That way you can hear when the bearing touches the plastic stop, as it's harder to "feel" when using very hard wood.I used a router table, which I'm sure produces better results. Very hard wood, like Wenge, and Purpleheart, is already prone to router and planer tear out. These woods are much harder than domestic hardwoods. The second photo shows Purpleheart and Wenge. I had some minor tear out on one of the Purpleheart tails. That was not the fault of the jig, but the nature of the type wood. A backer board would help. Domestic hardwoods work no problem. Through joints work ok, but don't come out perfect. Ensure the Pins board is cut using the EXACT thickness of the Tails board, like I didn't do.I finally got around to trying Edge-to Edge dovetails. They works well too.. The example is two edge-to-edge dovetails per box side (eight total), mitered, or beveled. It is the Quilted Maple with Leopard wood corners.I did find an issue with the provided bit. On harder wood, harder than Walnut like Purpleheart, or Bloodwood, the bit dulls even more rapidly. But more seriously, on harder wood, it can come loose in the collet. Initially, I thought it was my OEM collet. I bought a Whiteside collet, same thing. Later, I noticed the exposed shank, below the bearings, was shorter than my other ¼" shank bits. Anyway, I burned up the provided bit on the wine rack. Bottom line, the included bit sucks. I now use an Amana 14 degree ½" X ½" dovetail bit, and it works fine. But I guess that helps keep the package price down. I still love the jig, for the price.Edit: A backer board is a must for me now. I like to run a marking gauge lightly the height of tails of the tails on both sides prior to cut. That's just me.

Just takes a little practice, but it works well.

I am very happy with the jig. I have never made dovetails before, and I did not expect this to be something that I use to complete all of my joinery. I bought this to become familiar with this type of joint. The first try, I had to adjust the router bit down a tiny bit on the tails to make the joint fit, but very easy to set up and makes good joints. My only suggestion would be to purchase a better bit. After a few pieces of wood, this bit dulled and started causing major tear out. The bearings on this bit came apart very quickly, make sure you wear eye protection. I purchased a new bit at Lowes and already had plenty of bearings to keep my work moving. It is small, and if you are trying to create a larger joint, mark it out where you want the pins and tail. If you try to do a larger piece with numerous pins, you have to continually move the piece and re-align it to the jig. Other than that, I am more than satisfied. The next thing that I will add to this will be a backer board to minimize the tear out. I tried using a piece loosely with the jig, had to keep lining it up with the jig and the work piece. I will try to make a dedicated piece that is permanently attacked.

As you can see from the attached pictures, the dovetails turn out accurate, but in some cases they’re too tight. You really have to hunt down the correct height of the router bit for them to fit nicely. The misalignment issue you can see in the first two pictures was my fault and was my first attempt.I’m not sure I’ll be able to use this unless the dovetails are hidden as the tear out issue is too great. When making the tails you would need to clamp wood on both sides of your piece to prevent tear out and then you risk the cut piece not being square. I even tried inserting the bit behind the piece to back cut on each tail before going in from the front and still had issues. This was an issue in both hardwood and softwood, but perhaps it’s not as bad on plywood.If you can overcome the shortcomings of this jig, then it’s a great deal as far as setup, form factor and accuracy for the price. I’ll try plywood and update my comment if it’s any better.

After creating a large pile of practice pieces, I finally figured out how to use it. The QR code General provided didn't work. Other online videos left out critical steps. So far I've only done four "box joints " . They are good but more practice and I'll succeed. I'm totally an amateur at wood working.

Das Teil kommt in einer ordentlichen Verpackung und man sieht sofort, dass es für den amerikanischen Markt gemacht ist. Offenbar hat man im Laufe der Zeit auch immer wieder Kleinigkeiten verbessert, z.B. die Befestigungen für das Werkstück (sieht man in alten Videos).Es ist vollständig aus Metall (Aluminium) und ordentlich verarbeitet. Montiert werden muss nix. Man kann lediglich die beiden Griffe für die Arbeit am Frästisch anschrauben und muss sie wieder abschrauben, wenn man mit dem Fräskorb arbeitet.Bzgl. US-Produkt: Die Anleitung und das Video sind natürlich auf Englisch. Alle Angaben sind in Zoll (2,54 cm). Der beiliegende Fräskopf ist auch mit einem 1/4" (Zoll) Schaft - den legt man am besten gleich zur Seite, weil der sowieso nicht in eine Standard-Fräse für den deutschen Markt passt, und kauft einen mit 8 mm Schaft in besserer Qualität (gibt’s hier z.B. von ENT 16200).Man sollte sich schon mal einen Tag Zeit und diverse Probebrettchen nehmen, zusätzlich die Anleitung und das Video schauen, bevor man richtig loslegen kann. Es ist wirklich nicht schwer und macht richtig Spaß, wenn man den Dreh raus hat. Schwalbenschwänze erklärt das Video sehr gut. Das beschreibe ich hier nicht extra, werden aber ordentlich (s. 6. Foto) und halten auch.Bei den Zinkenfräsen braucht man wieder einen mit Kugellager am Schaft (Bündigfräser). Der Durchmesser muss genau 12,7 mm sein (1/2"), sonst fräst man zu viel oder zu wenig und die Zinken passen nicht.Er muss um die Länge der Werkstückdicke + Dicke der Zinkenschablone (ca. 7mm) + Zugabe (ca. 0,5mm) herausragen UND (das gilt auch für Schwalbenschwänze) dann immer noch mit dem einen Kugellager an der Zinkenschablone anliegen.Denn - aufpassen: Die Zinkenschablone hat nach hinten eine geringere Dicke (S. 3. Foto). Wenn man die Frästiefe nicht richtig einstellt, schrammt man gleich mit dem Fräserschaft an der Schablone entlang oder man rutscht ab!Das ist bei den Schwalbenschwänzen noch relativ einfach einzustellen, bei Zinken aber schon tricky, weil der Fräser dann nicht mehr lang genug ist. Ich habe mir so geholfen, dass ich das Werkstück weiter nach hinten und nach oben versetzt habe (s. 4. Foto) mit einem 12 mm Brett als Zwischenstück geht’s (es entsteht eine minimale Lücke, vermutlich 0,7 mm, ist aber nicht schlimm). Und dann bekommt man perfekte Zinken (s. 1. und 2. Foto mit Überstand und plan geschliffen - da war ich etwas hastig, ist ja nur zur Probe).Kurze Anleitung fürs Einstellen der Zinken: Erstes Brett einspannen und den Fräser an der linken Seite der Zinkenschablone entlang führen. Nur links! Wir wollen genau 12,7 mm oder 1/2" heraus fräsen.Zweites Brett dann an der rechten Seite der Zinkenschablone entlangführen.Markierung: Hat man das erste Brett gefräst, legt man beide bündig übereinander und zeichnet die Lücken vom ersten auf das zweite Brett. Dann markiere ich immer noch die Teile, die ich wegfräsen will (weil ich sonst unter Garantie die falschen Teile weg fräse) und stelle den rechten Rand der Markierung so ein, dass er bündig mit der Zinkenschablone verläuft (Ablauf, s. 5. Foto).Werkstück festspannen und wie oben erklärt an der rechten Seite entlang fräsen.Schaut man sich die Markierungen an, sieht das unlogisch aus, als ob zu wenig weggefräst wird - aber es funktioniert!Mit Fräskorb oder am Frästisch arbeiten? Ist eine Philosophie-Frage. Wenn man sich sicher genug fühlt ist die Frästisch-Methode sehr komfortabel, denn das Festspannen der Schablone wird schnell lästig. Beim Frästisch spannt man das Werkstück ein, dreht das Ganze um und legt los (Links und rechts auf der Unterseite markieren, sonst kommt man durcheinander). Außerdem fliegen die Späne nach hinten weg und können abgesaugt werden. Mit Fräskorb fliegen die einem immer ins Gesicht.Zinken und Schwalbenschwänze sitzen schon ohne Verkleben bombenfest und ich brauche einen (Schon-)Hammer, um die wieder auseinander zu bekommen.Also klare Kaufempfehlung und trotz der englischen Anleitung 5 Sterne, weil es mir gefällt, dass das Produkt komplett aus Metall gefertigt ist und sich mit dieser Farbe schon fast als Deko-Objekt anbietet!

Fácil de usar, na primeira tentativa obtive bom resultado

Dommage que la notice d'utilisation soit si peux fourni et expliqué clairement...

La dima si presenta quasi interamente in alluminio e acciaio con alcune parti in plastica dura. Nella confezione è presente una fresa a coda di rondine larga 1/2 pollice e 14 gradi, purtroppo l’articolo nasce per il mercato nordamericano e tutti i riferimenti sono in unità Imperiali (pollici) e al momento le ,prove che ho realizzato sono state tutte con riferimenti in “pollici”. Ho acquistato la dima per poterla utilizzare con il mio tavolo di fresatura ma potrebbe bene essere utilizzata anche con una fresatrice a mano portatile, con la tavola da incidere fissata a un piano di lavoro e la dima fissata all’elemento da fresare.PRO: - Prezzo ragionevole: circa 1/4 del costo delle maschere di marca. - Può essere utilizzato su un tavolo di fresatura: la mia fresatrice (Bosch POF 1400 ACE) è grande e un po' difficile da maneggiare tenendola a mano. Ma ancora non ho provato con il rifilatore più piccolo della Makita. - È possibile inserire tavole per la lavorazione di qualsiasi larghezza: la forma della dima consente di tagliare 5 code/perni alla volta e poi far scorrere la tavola nella maschera per tagliarne di più assecondo delle necessità. - C'è un pezzo di plastica scorrevole con 2 funzioni: come calibro per impostare l'altezza della punta della fresatrice (aggiungere 1/2 pollice per accogliere la maschera), quindi impostare la profondità della fessura del perno (aggiungendo ancora 1/2 pollice). Anche se è utile avere questo misuratore multiuso, è meno conveniente di avendo 2 calibri. - A corredo della dima viene fornito un OTTIMO manuale utente che, passo passo e con numerosi esempi, introduce all'uso corretto della dima. Consiglio una attenta lettura del manuale prima di iniziare le vari prove.CONTRO: - Il manuale è in Inglese, Spagnolo e Francese. - Il pezzo di plastica scorrevole (almeno sul mio articolo) sedeva un po' orgoglioso del corpo in alluminio, il che faceva sì che i tagli dei perni fossero un po' più superficiali dei tagli della coda. I miei giunti di prova iniziali erano sempre allentati e non riuscivo a capirne il motivo finché non ho notato questo problema. Sono riuscito a rimediare al problema staccando il pezzo di plastica, quindi levigandone la parte anteriore con una levigatrice manuale e carta a grana 120, quindi riattaccandolo al corpo in alluminio. Ciò non ha influito negativamente sul misuratore di profondità/altezza regolabile. Questo è qualcosa che il produttore dovrebbero risolvere. - La punta della fresa fornita con la maschera aveva 2 problemi: continuava a bruciare il legno e l'altezza della lama era leggermente inferiore al 1/2 pollice, il che mi impediva di ottenere giunzioni strette. Ho comprato una nuova punta Freud che ha risolto entrambi i problemi. Avrei preferito acquistare la maschera senza punta a un prezzo leggermente inferiore.GIUDIZIO COMPLESSIVO: sono riuscito a utilizzare con successo la maschera per realizzare 2 scatole a cassetti alte circa 14 cm, anche se con modifiche alla maschera e alla punta della fresa (come indicato sopra). Ho intenzione di costruire più cassetti in futuro e continuerò a utilizzare questa maschera.

A terrific product for the less skilled of us who want aesthetically pleasing dovetail joints. Well manufactured and robust, easy to use.