A++, longer length.

These are the longest 8-32 i could fined. They installed easily and locked in place as intended.

CONCLUSION: This is a recommended item. The manufacturer recommends these inserts for light use with relatively soft materials. Using these inserts in wood for constructing items you would assemble and disassemble more than once is a good idea. They will go into narrower places than the knife edged screw-in inserts that are designed specifically for wood and MDF board. They are more than strong enough to hold in furniture and other wood projects that will not see severe pulling stress. Likewise, these are perfect for repairing the stripped assembly holes in appliances, tools, and other items. They also work well in metal to refit a stripped hole. They are properly made and strong.TESTING: I did two tests for thread accuracy. First by tapping a through hole in a 3/4"x1-1/2 inch wood block. The insert threaded easily. (Photo showing screw against the bottom of the insert in block). I then tapped a hole in a 1/8" thick soft steel bar (no photo). It threaded easily through that. I then tested for strength of hold. I screwed the wood block to an overhead joist. I then put a 1/4-20 bolt through the end link of a five foot chain. I then lifted myself up(220 lbs) by holding onto the chain. I felt the bolt move. I saw that it was displaced about a 1/4" to 3/8" of an inch, but did not pull out. (Blurry photo). I removed the insert coil by turning it forward until it exited the rear of the hole. The insert was not deformed in any way. (Photo) It moved because the wood threads partially failed and became stripped. I did not test for pull out from the metal bar as I knew it would withstand more tensile stress than my body weight could apply.USAGE: 1. Installation tool - Make yourself an installation tool. Using a 3/16" metal rod (Mild steel is fine; hardened steel is harder to machine but makes a stronger tool), cut a slot just slightly wider than the bent over installation wire at the bottom of the coil. (Photos). This will let you install the coil quickly and easily. 2. Hole preparation - If you are repairing a stripped hole, drill out to the proper size and use the correct tap to cut the threads that the coil will be inserted into. The manufacturer says this is self-tapping. It isn't. Same procedure for a new hole. 3. Installation - Using the tool, make sure the coil is entering the hole at the same angle of the hole to avoid cross-threading. If the hole is blind, turn it in until the end of the coil is flush with the surface. This will help prevent the end from stripping out. Only go in a forward direction. You risk unwinding the spring coil if you turn counterclockwise to back it out. If you need to remove the coil from a through hole (open at both ends), just keep turning forward until the coil has completely exited the hole. 4. Oversized insert length - If the insert is too long and you have a through hole, turn the coil so that the end is in proper position at the surface. Then cut off the protruding section from the rear of the hole and you will preserve the installation wire for the cutoff piece to be used again. If you cut off from the front, you will have a throwaway piece of leftover coil spring.

I use a fair number of 10-24 thread repair inserts to modify certain components on custom cars that I build. It was nice to find an alternate source to the brand name for additional inserts. I was concerned if they would match up with the brand name I have been using and was pleasantly surprised that they are a perfect match. Since I use so many on a project its great to be able to order these refills and save money in the process. Noe I will just need to add a few additional sizes to my inventory.