2001 Ford Excursion 4x4 Limited 7.3L PowerstrokeI had a noticeable vibration during accel and decel, around the 35-40 mph range. After 18 years, I suspected it was the universal joints in the rear driveshaft, backed up by focused Powerstroke internet groups that have experienced the same problems.These are high-quality universal joints, as expected from Moog. I went with the heavy duty greasable joints. Given the price point, it's money well spent, and only a few $ more for ease of maintenance. I've used Moog products on all my rebuilds, including ball joints, suspension and sway bar components, and these universal joints. I was not disappointed, these are quality universal joints.Installation is not necessarily for the faint-of-heart DIY'er, but it's not that difficult with basic shop tools, and a big hammer (i.e. I needed a sledge hammer). It is very helpful to have a help buddy -- much easier with two.To get the best access, I backed up my Excursion on rear ramps, to raise the rear end. NOTE: CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS ! When you remove the driveshaft, you have disabled the transmission brake -- the vehicle CAN roll if you're not careful. Safety First!REMOVAL: MARK THE DRIVESHAFT LOCATION, i.e. run a bead of spray paint at the connection points (interfaces to driveshaft) so you can put it back in the SAME position as it was before. These shafts are balanced at the factory, so you want to put it back the same way it was installed. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. For Ford DANA rear-ends, there is a 4 bolt connection at the rear differential "hogs head", and a similar connection at the front 4x4 transfer case. Getting the driveshaft out is easiest with 2 people, as it's heavy and bulky.Once the driveshaft is out, remove all the "C" clips from one end of the driveshaft (there are 4). Now the fun part. If your parts are rusty (likely), soak them with penetrating oil for a few hours. This makes removal a lot easier. Soak twice if necessary!If you have a universal joint removal tool ... great! If not, you can use a socket (sized for the joint diameter) and a Big Hammer to pound out the old joint cups. Pound out the 4 old cups and the joint will be free. Once you start you'll get the idea. The joint is a tight fit for obvious reasons, a little work and you'll get it free.INSTALLATION: Use scotch-brite or steel wool to clean out the rust from the joint receptacles where the new cups will go. A light coating of grease on the cups will aid installation. Install the U-joint, then gently drive the cups in until they are just past the C-clip groove. Install C-clips ensuring the are fully seated in the groove. Now gently drive the U-JOINT (not the cups), back and forth to ensure the cups are fully against the C-clips. Failure to do so will cause binding in the joint. Once the joint moves freely, grease with a high-quality approved grease until the seals on the cups bulge, or leak slightly.Repeat on the other end.Re-install driveshaft (factory torque specification) according to the paint marking so the driveshaft is in the "OEM installed" position.JeffCincinnati, OH

These are a perfect fit on rear drive shaft. I have had a good experience with this brand on my Jeep liberty. I suspect that they will hold up for the long haul on my work truck. I will check back in six months for an update.

I've had very good luck with Moog products so I decided to give these a shot. I'm about 2,000 miles in and no disappointments. The installed easily, run smooth and my driveline vibration is gone. I wish they came with an actual grease zerk, instead of the needle fitting but that's a minor complaint given what they are.

Promptly got our 4WD forklift back into service. I really appreciate the needle grease fitting at the end. It makes it much easier to access the fitting.

Worked good, just the right fit

Tough as nails

You can find cheaper joints, but do yourself a favor and spend an extra couple bucks to buy good ones. Moog is always a top shelf choice in parts.

Correct part & on time.