What it is: A set of electric horns that sound truck-like (deeper tone) and much louder than other aftermarket horns.Why you need it: Because the stock horns on a 2009 Toyota RAV4 sound like they were sourced from Vespa. Seriously, the stock horns are the lamest horns ever installed on an SUV in the history of all SUV's. As a matter of fact, when you meep-meep'd the stock horns at an animal attempting to cross the road, the animal just turned, glared, and charged the vehicle out of pure annoyance. And that animal was a kitten. Honking the stock horns on the RAV4 is the equivalent of whispering "Hey, just ignore this attempt to get your attention."Why I bought this horn kit.: Because PIAA has a reputation of making some of the best automotive lighting and horn systems in the world. And I needed an effective, attention-grabbing survival tool for dealing with total morons on the road. You know who they are. They are the chud's that text and drive, swerving from lane to lane at 70mph. They are the chuckleheads that haven't figured out how a 4 way stop sign works, or the death-wishers that sail through the red lights while taking a selfie.Top Tip: Make sure the engine has cooled for several hours. Installing these on the RAV4 sport takes some time, but is rather easy.1. Remove the plastic cover in front of the radiator. These use plastic clips. Push the center in, then remove the clips. Reset them for installing the cover.2. Remove the top mounts for the radiator with a socket. Gently push the radiator back towards the engine, and hold it there with a small block of wood or a rolled-up towel.3. Unplug the horn connectors by squeezing the connector, then removing the connectors (there is one for each horn).4. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the bolt for each horn. The bolt head is towards the front of the car, and you have to reach underneath the front bracket to access them. This takes the most time, because it is awkward to get to. Don't drop the bolt. Don't. Drop. The. Bolt.5. Once the stock horns are removed, immediately dispose of them (because they just pussify the RAV4).6. I chose to keep the factory wiring plugs, so I made short jumper wires out of 14 gauge wire with a 1/4 male blade connector on one end and a 1/4" female blade connector on the other. Solder them to prevent corrosion. Plug one end into the factory plug, and the other into the positive connector on the horn.7. Install the included ground wire to the ground connector on the horns. The round connector is bolted to the chassis with the horn mounting bolt.8. Mount the horns with the bolts, but thread them in from the back of the bracket, threading it towards the front of the vehicle.They will install MUCH faster. Angle the horns toward the front of the vehicle so as to provide as much clearance between the radiator and horns as possible (I ended up with about 1.5" inches).9. Test the horns. Rejoice in how much better they sound.10. Bolt in the radiator brackets and install the front cover with the plastic push clips.Summary: Instructions are clear, quality is great, value is well-worth it. Install this kit and live to enjoy another day behind the wheel.

Other Honda Ridgeline owners (@2017 model year) will want to consider upgrading to something like these for the horn installed on their vehicles - a wimpy sounding VWbug style "meep" sound. A truck should sound like a truck and I'm glad I located these to replace the mistake Honda made with the Ridgeline horn. The pictures I've added here hopefully can help others with their install.Here are some instructions for install - compiled notes:Parts list & needed tools/helps:• College hills wiring adapter (Purchased separately from College Hills Honda - important!!)• PIAA sports horn kit off Amazon. Bought for price over the Superior Bass and the sound was still good to me. PIAA website has great sound clips.• Two M6x1.0 bolts about 1.25 inch long (+ extras)• Two nuts, 3 lock washers, and 3 flat washers (+ extras)• One 3/4 inch plastic spacer• WD40• 10mm open end wrench and/or a 10mm ratchet box wrenchEngine bay prep:A. Remove front garnishB. Remove intake tubeUnscrew the four plastic clips (Phillips screwdriver) that hold the air cleaner intake that goes over the radiator on the driver's side. Once the screw portions are removed, pull the clips out of the holes and set them aside. Lift off the upper intake plumbing pieces and set them asideC. Disconnect battery (remove it for better access since it is disconnected anyway.)Loosen and remove the negative wire first with a 10mm wrench or socket, then repeat with the positive wire. When you reinstall, secure the positive first, then the negative (this way you won't accidentally short a wrench between the positive terminal and the truck ground).Loosen the two bolts that hold the battery in place and unhook the battery hold-down hooks. (10mm deep well socket or open-end wrench)Unplug the small electrical connector on the front right of the battery (I think it's a fan to cool the battery). REMOVE or… lift the battery high enough to clear the battery tray and slide the battery over closer to the engine as far as it will go.This should give you enough room to work.D. Remove factory horn - Unplug the OEM horn and unbolt the horn with 10mm socket or wrench (10mm open end wrench and a 10mm ratchet box wrench are noted best) from the OEM bracket and remove the horn.Install notes:• Run a tap or bolt through unused engine bay bracket, M6x1.0• Put the wires on the horns outside the truck, no easy access once mounted.• Place bolt with washer onto first horn, place spacer on bolt, then thread into bracket. I used the spacer to keep the horn away from the body.• Place bolt with second washer onto other horn and place a nut on to secure the bolt to the horn bracket. This method made installing horn onto factory bracket simpler and also provided a little spacing off the factory bracket. Place second horn onto factory bracket, threads facing the firewall.• Slip both grounding lugs over exposed threads, then thread on the final nut and washer, locking it all in place.• Make final connection to factory power wire if not already done.Some notes - Don't mess with the PIAA horn brackets, you risk ruining the horns and they work fine as is.The PIAA horns come with a pair of grounding wires as does the College Hills horn wiring kit. You can use either set as is, but I chose to shorten the wires as they are quite long.The horns are mirror images of each other, so you’ll need to test fit both PIAA horns to the OEM horn bracket to see which one fits best and allows the opening of the horn to point downward the best. There is an aluminum brace that prevents the horn from pointing straight down, but a downward angle is sufficient as the mounting area is well protected from water.Connect the grounding wire to one of the horn terminals (either terminal is fine) and put the loop end of the wire around the bolt you use to attach the first PIAA horn to the OEM horn bracket with a lock washer and nut. I found that a 10mm open end wrench and a 10mm ratchet box wrench worked better than a socket wrench.Repeat the process for the second horn threading the bolt into the nut welded to the unused bracket. The nut will have a good bit of paint on the threads and it will be difficult to thread the bolt, you might want to clear the threads with a tap if you have one or at least thread the bolt into place without the horn to clean the threads.Once both horns are mounted and grounded, simply plug the horn adapter wire into the OEM connector and attach the two wires to the open terminals on both horns.Reinstall battery and test horns.If working, reassemble intake, and garnish.- Make sure you have extra bolts and lock washers for when you drop the one you are trying to get into place. :wink:- Disconnecting the old horn can be a challenge, especially given I bought my car used and it had about 30k miles of dirt and gunk on the bolts. A little WD40 was needed to loosen up the nut on the OEM horn.

Buy this one instead: are no English language instructions, but the instructions blow in any language. Consult Youtube for installation on your specific car. I replaced the horns on a Mazda 6. The OEM horns were pretty dern loud, but the low tone horn died. Evertything falls apart. Everything dies. I paid too much for a PIAA North American market replacement, but the installation was cake. After I got the front bumper cover off. That sucked. And then I had to put it back on. That sucked more. But the actual install was A-OK. Use the included ground wires to ground the horn to the OEM mounting bolt. Works like a charm.These are NOT louder than the OEM on the 2017 Mazda6. But they are aight. There is only so much you can do with 12 volts.Oh, and keep track of all your bolts. I had to go digging for the bolt had held the ground wire to the low tone horn. Because I don't work on cars I and I pay no attention to detail. I left it under the plastic shroud when I put the bumper assembly back on.Don't do this!!! :-/

My stock BMW horns are louder and a better tone.

I love this horn! Have 2 of these in both my cars. Pleasant bassy demanding tone and great build quality. Follow the instruction and you will not mess up the wires

Sehr gute Hupen, nicht so ein gequieke wie andere Hupen, da die Frequenzen niedrig gehalten sind. Erwartet keine Hochdruckhörner, denn es sind ja keine, aber einen guten lauten Ton hauen sie auf jeden Fall raus. Können an die serienmäßigen Hupenanschlüsse angeschlossen werden, werd mehr Wumms braucht muss eben zu Kompressorhupen greifen und Leitungen + Relais legen.

The sound of the horn is awesome and installation is easy and quick (my car is a 2018 Maxima) but compared to the marketed 112 db it seemed lacking. It isn't bad, I just thought it would be louder than the average horn.

I own a 2016 Forte EX, and I'm quite happy with it. The only thing that presented a problem was that wimpy fiat/smart/mini-like horn that makes it sound like a clown car (I know I shouldn't insult clowns by comparing their cars to fiats/smarts/minis, but you get the idea). Now anyone has their tastes for cars, that's a given. But a car should sound like a car, not like some hipster's toy you can't even get out in the winter. Not only can it be legitimate to not want to use such a horn, but when you had to, MAYBE you could be heard, but one isn't always so lucky. So yeah, now some f't[a/u]rd that can't use their turn signals and shoves their car in the way at the last second will think again. Here I realise I sound like a douchebag, but I'm just pissed off when I think of the many people who can't drive I've encountered where I live! In the province of Quebec, there are the taxi drivers in Montreal who deserve Uber to ruin them all, then there's the sunday drivers who all live in Victoriaville, for some reason... The bass horns sound perfect; not too loud, just enough (I didn't buy a train horn, after all), has the right pitch; I like it. Both horns sound perfect without needing any mod because they also don't need much amp, which is a win! For the price, if you have the same problem I had, it's worth it, and it was easy to install, too.For those interested, if you own the same model or any car that has the horn inside the bumper just behind the fog light, I admit I had to build a bracket to hold both horns instead of juste one and had to adjust it a bit so it fit right, but if you're already able to locate the horn and know how to use simple tools that even monkeys understand and anyone has at home by default, you can't find it to be difficult in any way shape or form. The only thing, though, is if you go to youtube to understand how to fit two horns instead of just one (which was my case), there is a video of a guy showing how he cut the original plug inside the bumper to solder his new horns' wires. I suggest to you to not cut that plug (because the space in there is a bit tight to start soldering comfortably); it's far easier to take out the old horn and to remove the plug that is on it that has the contacts riveted to the horn (see picture). All you have to do is drill a hole just big enough for the aluminum rivets and you'll be able to remove it, then, you can start soldering the wires with all thespace you want, and use wires long enough to place your horns according to the space you can work with. Then, if you have to, you can make brackets like I did and when you're done, all you have to do is plug the new horns using the original plug.Note that the transparent plug sleeves come with the Piaa horns; the black ones are shrink tubing I had on hand. As you can see on the picture, I used stainless steel screws to hold the wires onto the original horn plug. You can't see very well, but I soldered ring terminals to the wired so it held in place with said screws. Used the soldering iron to burn a bit of plastic off around the plug contacts so that it all could fit flat.What I did isn't the prettiest soldering job I've seen, but it's solid, holds in place, and I'm happy with the results. All you have to do is take your time, be sur you have everything before starting the job (so buy a few things at home depot OR have a dad who already has every plug you can imagine in his garage, LOL!) and it will be perfect.Things I used :- Piaa bass horns 85115- 2x disconnect terminal (2 more than the ones provided with the Piaa horn)- 2x ring terminal- shrink tubing (anywhere you see shrink tubing on the picture there was soldering involved, not just twist and hope for the best)- 2x stainless steel screws- 2x stainless steel nuts with nylon so it won't unscrew by itself- 1/8 x 1" x whatever length you need stainless flat bar that I hammerd in a vice to fold it in a way that it fit the space I had to work with (I didn't think of taking that picture)That's it.Hope this could help