Product worked great, and easy to pour out of the bag and into the seed spreader

I found out ten years ago, during the days I outsourced lawn care, something that most lawn care devotees know well - crabgrass is best controlled before it germinates and next to impossible to control once it does. Since that time, I've done my lawn care myself, and this product is a key part of the regimen. With a healthy lawn and a properly applied pre-emergent, I've had no issues with crabgrass in ten years.Used correctly, a pre-emergent weed control such as this one is very effective. This means applying at the prescribed rate and on time - two weeks before soil temperatures are warm enough for crabgrass seeds to germinate. Blooming forsythia is a good indication that it is time to apply this product. So why this product versus what you can get at your local big box store? Well, big box stores carry weed and feed products for the most part versus a pure pre-emergent, and early spring, while a good time to apply pre-emergent, is not ideal for fertilizer application. Fertilizer is best used when grass is actively growing; in spring, this tends to be more than a month after the ideal time to apply pre-emergent. The best resource I can recommend for the correct times to apply pre-emergents and fertilizers is your local university extension and co-op. In Wisconsin where I currently live, a single early spring pre-emergent application around mid April tends to be sufficient. When I lived in Southern Indiana, with warmer summers and a longer season, I found that I needed split applications six - eight weeks apart.One other small point to conclude this review; a healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds of all kinds; very few weeds, including crabgrass, can out compete an aggressively growing turf grass such as Kentucky Bluegrass. Most issues tend to occur when the lawn is stressed, such as during periods of drought, and a pre-emergent will keep crabgrass from taking over your lawn during these periods.A product like this is becoming increasingly hard to find, with many companies pushing combined weed and feed products for convenience. I am glad Amazon carries this and hope they continue to do so in the future.

I've never had any luck whatsoever with post emergence weed killers. They either kill the grass with the weeds, or don't touch the weeds. But this is a preventer and it has always worked for me. I put it on the yard as soon as the snow clears, and the yard is free of crab grass for MOST of the growing season. (I always seem to get some very late season crab grass, but minimal quantity. The product seems safe. I haven't had any adverse health problems applying it, as I have with some weed killers and insecticides."Halts" also is available mixed in with Scotts fertilizer, but I have not had as much success with that product. The concentrated Halts works the best. Now I just wish Scotts could come out with a BROAD LEAF weed preventer that works.

I have used Scotts products for years and years. They are a little more expensive, but worth it. I have tried other products and did not get the results I get with Scotts.

This Scott's Grassy weed & crabgrass , put it on timely in the fall by the agri center recommended timeline. I called 4 days before. I am seeing poannua & He bit around. Darn. It's Too early for crab grass. I will keep a watch. I sure hope it works on at least 90%!

It's the only one I use and works every time.

Lawn care is very easy. All you have to do are follow the plan, Adjust it as necessary for YOU (and your area) and you will have great results!.Early spring,right after the snow melts is when to apply this. I am in Chicago and the usual time is before April first. If you're like me and have Perennials you know that they start to grow back in late April. Your goal is to get this down BEFORE stuff starts to grow. The biggest mistake is to wait once it's warm and things are sprouting up, That is just an indicator that you procrastinated too long and this product will not be as effective as it should (apply after the snow melts and the ground starts to thaw BUT before the ground gets soggy).So here is my simple great lawn tips.Late March, Early April1. First 55-60 degree day. Clean up your plant beds. Cut off all of last seasons dead stuff from Hostas and other Perennials including Decorative Grasses etc.. 2. Rake up all the leaves and debris. If your Garbage company offers Lawn Waste containers (I have Waste Management), order one. I pay $3 a month for a large 96 gallon wheeled container which they empty every trash day. (it's cheaper and easier than using lawn waste bags).3. Put down your crabgrass preventer. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! If it says put it down when grass is wet DO SO! Don't just throw your products down without reading the directions.4. Put down some Preen in your flower beds, follow the directions on the package.5. Put down your Ant protection if you need it. I use Ortho 0196010 Home Defense Max MONTHLY if needed.In mid-May.6. Fertilize your trees, shrubs and perennials. I use a chicken waste product available at Home Centers runs around $8 a bag7. Follow up with STEP 2 which is usually a Weed & Feed product.8. Continue to clean up your plant beds9. Move plants that have outgrown their spot.10. Apply fresh mulch. or try a product like EnviroColor Cocoa Brown colorant to restore your mulch. (it works pretty well).11. As your Weather permits get your garden planted.June12 Use a grass food to feed your lawn. I am not too picky about this step. I just buy whatever is on sale.13. REPEAT step 514. If you have dogs apply some Adams Flea and tick yard spray to the lawn. Buy it locally as their sprayers really really stink.July14. Grass most likely will be ok might need summer guard type product.15. This is BIG. If your grass does not bounce back when you step on it. It's DRY, water it or at minimum stop stepping on it! (and that means stop running over it with the lawn mower!) Nothing drives me nuts more than seeing landscape companies running around stomping grass that is not growing!October16. De-thatch your lawn. Many people do this in the spring, I prefer to do this in the fall as "mulch" season for me always seems to take longer and longer (the older I get)17. IF you have crabgrass issues repeat step 3 now.otherwise do your winterizer fertilizer.LastlyIt's necessary to overseed your lawn (at minimum) every 5 years (or sooner) If what you are doing is not working maybe it's time to buy 30 lbs of grass seed and spread it. Follow the directions and do NOT put grass seed down if the fertilizer you are using at the time says it will not work with fresh grass seed.Lastly and this might be the most important tip. RAISE YOUR MOWER DECK! Cutting grass to short weakens grass, it allows water to evaporate much faster and makes it easy for weeds to invade your lawn. As the temps go up the grass should be left longer so that it doesn't dry up and turn brown.Second lastly :] sharpen your mower blade! A dull blade rips grass, A sharp blade cuts it. Ripped grass is left damaged and can lead to other issues that you honestly don't want to deal with (disease).Hope that helps!Post a msg if you have any question. I usually answer them within 24 hours.

This is an ok product but I don’t know what would be better. It definitely reduces the growth of weeds but doesn’t prevent the growth of rescue grass as I’d like.

Product worked great, and easy to pour out of the bag and into the seed spreader

I found out ten years ago, during the days I outsourced lawn care, something that most lawn care devotees know well - crabgrass is best controlled before it germinates and next to impossible to control once it does. Since that time, I've done my lawn care myself, and this product is a key part of the regimen. With a healthy lawn and a properly applied pre-emergent, I've had no issues with crabgrass in ten years.Used correctly, a pre-emergent weed control such as this one is very effective. This means applying at the prescribed rate and on time - two weeks before soil temperatures are warm enough for crabgrass seeds to germinate. Blooming forsythia is a good indication that it is time to apply this product. So why this product versus what you can get at your local big box store? Well, big box stores carry weed and feed products for the most part versus a pure pre-emergent, and early spring, while a good time to apply pre-emergent, is not ideal for fertilizer application. Fertilizer is best used when grass is actively growing; in spring, this tends to be more than a month after the ideal time to apply pre-emergent. The best resource I can recommend for the correct times to apply pre-emergents and fertilizers is your local university extension and co-op. In Wisconsin where I currently live, a single early spring pre-emergent application around mid April tends to be sufficient. When I lived in Southern Indiana, with warmer summers and a longer season, I found that I needed split applications six - eight weeks apart.One other small point to conclude this review; a healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds of all kinds; very few weeds, including crabgrass, can out compete an aggressively growing turf grass such as Kentucky Bluegrass. Most issues tend to occur when the lawn is stressed, such as during periods of drought, and a pre-emergent will keep crabgrass from taking over your lawn during these periods.A product like this is becoming increasingly hard to find, with many companies pushing combined weed and feed products for convenience. I am glad Amazon carries this and hope they continue to do so in the future.

I've never had any luck whatsoever with post emergence weed killers. They either kill the grass with the weeds, or don't touch the weeds. But this is a preventer and it has always worked for me. I put it on the yard as soon as the snow clears, and the yard is free of crab grass for MOST of the growing season. (I always seem to get some very late season crab grass, but minimal quantity. The product seems safe. I haven't had any adverse health problems applying it, as I have with some weed killers and insecticides."Halts" also is available mixed in with Scotts fertilizer, but I have not had as much success with that product. The concentrated Halts works the best. Now I just wish Scotts could come out with a BROAD LEAF weed preventer that works.

I have used Scotts products for years and years. They are a little more expensive, but worth it. I have tried other products and did not get the results I get with Scotts.

This Scott's Grassy weed & crabgrass , put it on timely in the fall by the agri center recommended timeline. I called 4 days before. I am seeing poannua & He bit around. Darn. It's Too early for crab grass. I will keep a watch. I sure hope it works on at least 90%!

It's the only one I use and works every time.

Lawn care is very easy. All you have to do are follow the plan, Adjust it as necessary for YOU (and your area) and you will have great results!.Early spring,right after the snow melts is when to apply this. I am in Chicago and the usual time is before April first. If you're like me and have Perennials you know that they start to grow back in late April. Your goal is to get this down BEFORE stuff starts to grow. The biggest mistake is to wait once it's warm and things are sprouting up, That is just an indicator that you procrastinated too long and this product will not be as effective as it should (apply after the snow melts and the ground starts to thaw BUT before the ground gets soggy).So here is my simple great lawn tips.Late March, Early April1. First 55-60 degree day. Clean up your plant beds. Cut off all of last seasons dead stuff from Hostas and other Perennials including Decorative Grasses etc.. 2. Rake up all the leaves and debris. If your Garbage company offers Lawn Waste containers (I have Waste Management), order one. I pay $3 a month for a large 96 gallon wheeled container which they empty every trash day. (it's cheaper and easier than using lawn waste bags).3. Put down your crabgrass preventer. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! If it says put it down when grass is wet DO SO! Don't just throw your products down without reading the directions.4. Put down some Preen in your flower beds, follow the directions on the package.5. Put down your Ant protection if you need it. I use Ortho 0196010 Home Defense Max MONTHLY if needed.In mid-May.6. Fertilize your trees, shrubs and perennials. I use a chicken waste product available at Home Centers runs around $8 a bag7. Follow up with STEP 2 which is usually a Weed & Feed product.8. Continue to clean up your plant beds9. Move plants that have outgrown their spot.10. Apply fresh mulch. or try a product like EnviroColor Cocoa Brown colorant to restore your mulch. (it works pretty well).11. As your Weather permits get your garden planted.June12 Use a grass food to feed your lawn. I am not too picky about this step. I just buy whatever is on sale.13. REPEAT step 514. If you have dogs apply some Adams Flea and tick yard spray to the lawn. Buy it locally as their sprayers really really stink.July14. Grass most likely will be ok might need summer guard type product.15. This is BIG. If your grass does not bounce back when you step on it. It's DRY, water it or at minimum stop stepping on it! (and that means stop running over it with the lawn mower!) Nothing drives me nuts more than seeing landscape companies running around stomping grass that is not growing!October16. De-thatch your lawn. Many people do this in the spring, I prefer to do this in the fall as "mulch" season for me always seems to take longer and longer (the older I get)17. IF you have crabgrass issues repeat step 3 now.otherwise do your winterizer fertilizer.LastlyIt's necessary to overseed your lawn (at minimum) every 5 years (or sooner) If what you are doing is not working maybe it's time to buy 30 lbs of grass seed and spread it. Follow the directions and do NOT put grass seed down if the fertilizer you are using at the time says it will not work with fresh grass seed.Lastly and this might be the most important tip. RAISE YOUR MOWER DECK! Cutting grass to short weakens grass, it allows water to evaporate much faster and makes it easy for weeds to invade your lawn. As the temps go up the grass should be left longer so that it doesn't dry up and turn brown.Second lastly :] sharpen your mower blade! A dull blade rips grass, A sharp blade cuts it. Ripped grass is left damaged and can lead to other issues that you honestly don't want to deal with (disease).Hope that helps!Post a msg if you have any question. I usually answer them within 24 hours.

This is an ok product but I don’t know what would be better. It definitely reduces the growth of weeds but doesn’t prevent the growth of rescue grass as I’d like.