Some may say that a large tub of branded (eg. Castrol or Valvoline) general purpose lithium automotive grease should work every bit as well for 95% of bicycle applications, and cost a lot less in the process than 'special' little tubes of essentially the same product. Those people are pretty right, well almost...I've used quite a number of bicycle greases on a regular basis. Some are meant for particular applications yes, but really the majority are just sold as general purpose cleverly named 'bicycle specific' greases. There are a lot of brand names, many belonging to bicycle component or bicycle tool manufacturers. A few particular greases I now use much more regularly than all the rest combined. The vast majority of brand names behind these products certainly do not manufacture lubricants themselves, despite all their claims of developing and blending special formulas. The simple fact is that bicycle grease in general does not need to be anything special, because of the very low speed, low stress, and relatively low cost nature of most bicycle bearings. Indeed, greases are just as likely to get smeared in seat tubes, on pedal threads, or wire cables, than packed into bearings. There are a whole plethora of chain lube and bike grease products available to buy, but it's not because they differ all that much... but because there is money to be made selling them! The products are mostly all just supplied by a chemical company (or refinery) and end up being packaged and sold in relatively tiny quantities, after first being scented and coloured. They are then sold with a bicycle brand name on the tub or tube or sachet, in a bicycle environment (shop) where customers pay top dollar for them. If people didn't buy them, they wouldn't exist in such numbers. Boat trailer grease is effectively economical & plentiful, heat resistant & waterproof... but it may also stink and look brown in colour. For bicycles, a regular size tube of grease may last the average person a long time anyway, be more convenient, and also be an effective way of avoiding contamination (open containers at ground level, dropped tub etc).I use a fair bit of Park Tool 'Polylube' grease but only because I'm lazy and it's cheap to buy. It's coloured green (when new) which sometimes helps to identify new versus old grease, and it comes in convenient tubes which hold a decent amount, have a bit of a nozzle extension, and are easily re-capped. Importantly though, it's also pretty ordinary grease which tends to destroy bicycle hubs prematurely, isn't at all waterproof (ends up a white slime everywhere) and even separates at relatively low temperature. Next up is Pedros 'Bio Grease', which is a clear biodegradable grease, and generally better at what I call cleanliness for lack of a better word, around seat posts and exposed cabling. It's better than Park grease but not quite as convenient, harder to see, and the tube tops are fiddly. But being a clear grease, it also allows easier inspection for grease contamination in bearings. Next along is the Phil Wood grease, a dark green grease which is waterproof and very dependable in hubs. It does cost more, and comes in smallish tubes with annoying little caps, but for decent quality hubs it's an infinitely better choice than Park. (for average hubs I use the Pedros, for better hubs the Phil Wood, but any junk bearings I just fill with Park). Finally, the Dura-Ace grease is the dearest of the lot, a yellow almost fluoro coloured grease recommended by Shimano for use in their better cup & cone wheel bearings (& headsets/BBs/pedals). It's difficult to argue with the logic of using Shimano's recommended product in high quality Dura Ace hubs, when the hubs are so well engineered, and the price of the grease works out to be rather insignificant when it's being used in small quantities to protect such expensive items. It's interesting to note that Shimano insist users don't jam pack bearings full of Dura-Ace grease but rather use a much more limited quantity.The Dura-Ace grease has a nice consistency which is ideal for placing (holding) individual ball bearings into greased bearing cups. It's slightly tacky but without being thick, and also a bit more 'stringy' than the other greases. This is somewhat different from the consistency of the Pedros grease, which is sort of more 'dry' and a bit thicker.. and actually doesn't hold ball bearings as well. Dura-Ace grease has a much lighter colour and is far more translucent than the Phil Wood.. which can also help to keep track of the ball bearings, seriously. Ultimately, the DA grease is a dependable product designed to extend the service life of high quality bearings... and is the polar opposite of the Park grease (which should be kept away from anything good).Using DA grease in cheap Alivio or Sora level hub bearings is fine if you want to, but that's probably just wasting money. It's really more important that you change grease regularly where necessary, rather than have no grease, or expensive contaminated grease. This DA grease also comes in a small screw top 50 gram container, and a huge 500g tub which is expensive to buy. I bought this last 100g pot on Amazon from 'Extreme Bike & Sport' for $17.63 which is pretty good for what it is and should last me ages. Hope I've helped someone.

Keeps my ball bearings slippery and rolling. Bottom bracket, freewheel hubs, and axle bearings. Also used on my seat post and head bearings and steering tube.There is cheaper grease out there but why use it when you can use the best?

Used it for needle bearings on pedals. Had used Park grease before. Cleaned all the old grease with degreaser. Regreased bearings and pedal axles. What a difference. Spins easier and is butter smooth. Also used it on headsets and wheel bearings and it's great. Note, could not wash it out of my hands, it is the "greasiest" grease I ever used. It should stand up to water with no problems. It is also very sticky. Premium grease, no comparison to others.

There you have it, the best of two worlds, a Japanese product made in Germany. Yes, this is Shimano DuraAce branded grease made in Germany to meet Shimano’s standards. There is no need to discuss DuraAce products. Together with Campy Record they are the top shelf of the cycling world. If it could be only cheaper? At this price point it’s 3-5 times more than regular all-around bike grease.

Expensive for the amount that you get.. a good quality marine grease would probably do the job just as well but I happen to like that glowing green color of the Shimano grease.. the grease came in a flexible plastic tube.. I was expecting the screw on lid tub that’s pictured in the description..

I prefer old school Campagnolo Special Grease (the beige stuff that came in a small tub and was made in Italy), but it is very hard to find, and if you do it is very Expensive.This grease is german made and is my second choice as it is very silky and doesn't degrade easily with exposure to water and dirt. I just regreased the bearing on my vintage 1980s Dura Ace and Specialized Headset and Suntour Bottom Bracket - everything seems as smooth as a new install...You can't go wrong with this grease.

I am a lube freak. I make my own tungsten sulfide suspension oils because nothing commercially available is better. I have a collection of most lubricants (oils and greases) available.This is the best grease ever! Super slippery, heat tolerant, hydrophobic, stays put and even looks cool (green). Slightly better than my former favorite, royal purple. Due to the price, I still use royal purple for most large jobs but the shimano for everything precision or small.

Can I send it back and get my money back??

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Do not buy! Instead of bike grease, we received two rolls of garbage bags!