Diesel Air Heater 12V 5KW-8KW Parking Heater Diesel Night Heater with Silencer LCD Switch Remote Control 10L Tank for Truck, Boat, Car Trailer, Motorhomes, Campervans, Caravas

First step was to disassemble the whole unit, carefully tightened several loose screws, checked casting and gasket integrity, installed better fuel line clamps, installed my own pre filter, primed fuel and it fired right up. For the money invested It performs amazing.... just in time for a cold front. The clicking was a bit noisy until I adjusted the pump hanger/rubber.. now it's much quieter...we love having it in the shop... I ran it approx 60hrs on 2.5gallons of diesel... warm and dry in my 500sqft garage now. Look to youtube for tech support.Fuel tank and cap is super thin. Only snug the blue cap... install kit is mehhh! Soo I ordered a somewhat better install package...

I installed this under the seat in our 2022 Sprinter. I omitted using the steel mounting plate that accompanied the heater, rather used the plate as a template for the holes in the vehicle floor. I vented the heater out the back of the passenger seat pedestal and mounted the heater nearest the door as that’s where the exhaust and intake can poke through the floor without hitting the frame member of the van. I’m powering the heater using the house batteries. This went surprisingly well and quickly. For now I have the heater exhaust routed directly under the van, I will revise this with an extension tube I have orders that outs the exhaust near the edge of the van. Although even with the exhaust directly under the van I can’t discern any exhaust odor, inside or outside. I believe I installed it within about 5 hours total. I used the auxiliary fuel tap Mercedes provides in the fuel tank.The main detractor is the very poorly translated user manual. A second detractor is the low rumble the heater emits while operating, outside it’s very noticeable but less so inside. If you spend enough time you can decipher the instructions and then focus on the chart that describes functions somewhat. You may need to search online a bit for instructions of the controller as, but I noticed the older online discussions didn’t necessarily agree with how this controller functions. The clamps for the intake and exhaust tubing were not large enough for the air intake. The spring clamps for the fuel tubing worked great, for the intake tubing a spring clamp would be nice also. I have ordered some clamps which I believe will work. I used several online discussions to have guidance for installing the heater.I’d say for the price, as of now, the heater is a huge bargain. The quality and appearance seem really excellent for the short time I’ve ran it. After installing we had a cold snap which reached 0F. While I had the chance I operated this heater throughout and it functioned fine, keeping the 144 wheelbase high top ban at 40f on the 2nd to low setting. The van is decently insulated, except nothing insulating the floor. I wasn’t staying in the van just checking function while the weather was providing a stress test.I’ll follow up here if something does poorly.

No funciona. Tiene la manguera de diésel rota, no calienta, se apaga. Esperando otro equipo para cambiar.

Was just what I was aspecting delivered super fast ..was alil smell when first fired up but soon disappeared

Works so far...Had an amazing incident.A branch broke off above my site.Missed me by 6 feet.Unplugged the heater..Tiny bit of damage to heater.I feel like President Trump's ear...

It came disassembled and you can’t return it.

Did not come with a muffler could not send back

UPDATED ,,,, AFTER ABOUT 4 HOURS ON HIGH IT SMOKES SO BAD AND STOPPED MAKING HEAT ! JUNK ITEM. i cant even warm my hands with it ..power wires, Once side is bare why not have clips on them ? No sorry, The other side will attach to the heater BUT it has washes very small and it wont go tight. If your on the go its not hard to lose one and be out of luck and heat., Exhaust connection is on the FRONT on the heater ! Intake on the back. Problem will come . you have to get the exhaust outside and the hot air unit is in the front of the heater .Meaning your exhaust pipe has to be ran twice as far and your air intake will be next to the exhaust to possibly tough like mine to melt the plastic . Hose clamps are 13/64 odd ball size most people wont have a OPEN end wrench to put it tightin that size real odd ball. There is zero room to get a screw driver in there. They need to change to standard 8 mm clamps like everyone else in the world. Directions are very stupid it says connect the fuel on one page and electric . Its already connected. Your new unit will take two or three cycles on and off to get the heat working to get the fuel though the lines . All and all it does work its not loud it has good heat about 8000 btu heater or equal to three 1000 watt electric heaters . Few upgrades from the company it can be a 5 star heater . I would not buy it again it kind made me mad installing it . Thanks for reading . If it had the new parts i suggest and exhaust on the back side it would be a 5 star and i would buy another.

Brought this for my workshop.which was getting damp, it works well is easy to set up and use. Be WARNED the exhaust pipe gets very F hot! As stupid as this sounds. I put a whole through the wooden side of my shed and lined it and it got so.hot it set fire to the side of the shed. (Nothiny major as I was there and half expecting it) good item for the price. My neighbour and other engineering friend have both brought one since on seeing this one and are happy with it

Preis Leistung ist TopSchnelle LieferungSehr empfehlenswert

So there are loads of these heaters around on the internet and I thought I'd do some research before purchasing. I bought the Triclicks as it seemed to be just a little bit better that the others that were offered with the remote control key-fob and the better heater housing.I'll start with the bit of info that you want to know; this heater is brilliant - works very well indeed with plenty of heat produced with minimal usage of fuel. It warms up quickly and has a protective cool down cycle to keep the heat exchanger cool when switching the unit off. (good for longevity)If you want to use your main fuel tank to supply this thing then firstly buy a fuel tank pickup straw kit, this includes a tank adapter connector and a pickup straw – essential and not expensive from amazon or the van manufacturer service counter. If you want to use the included tank then ignore the bit about fitting the fuel pickup pipe below. Everything else you need is included in the supplied kit that comes with the heater.Right, so what is it like to fit?I bought this to heat the load area of my transit van, I’m a site fitter so have to work out in fields in all weathers whereby my clothes and tools get wet and muddy – so a decent heater was essential so help dry my workwear between jobs.Firstly I found the place I wanted to fit the heater, for me it was just in-front of the drivers side rear wheel arch as this happens to be right in between a major load bearing crossmember and the sill underneath the van. I drilled a 4 inch diameter hole right through the floor using a hole saw – very well measured and marked off first so as not to land in a stressed member. Drill a pilot hole from underneath (where you can see the chassis etc) then the big hole from above to keep things tidy.Assemble the heater inlet, exhaust, fuel pipe, fuel pump wire and included carrier plate and put plenty of high temperature silicon down on the van floor so form a seal – you don’t want carbon monoxide poisoning do you! (or ingress of water). Plonk the lot through the hole and secure the mounting/carrier plate to the van floor using bolts or even just tec-screws will be fine (use silicon underneath to make sure everything is sealed up against the weather and give a good bead around the holes for best protection.So now there is a heater in the van with a load of tubes sticking out underneath. Lets fit the fuel pipe.Fuel pickup pipe:This is the pain part – support and unbolt the fuel tank (make sure to have about ¼ to 1/8 of a tank of fuel – having no more fuel than this in the tank is absolutely essential), pull the wiring off from the connector and unbolt the fuel filler tube bracket, this will just slide out of the bit where you fill the van with fuel when you lower the tank – lower the fuel tank, you need to get it down by about 8” (200mm) or more to enable you to get the fuel pickup onto the tank. The van fuel tank is already fitted with an aux fuel take-off union on the top at the rear – newer fords have two, one located at the fuel pickup end and one at the opposite end of the tank on its own (RH top drivers side). Use a sharp knife and cut the very end of the aux take-off pipe off – this will form an open tube into the tank. Fit the pickup straw that I mentioned at the beginning of this review as it saves a lot of pain! Put the pickup tube into the hole you’ve cut and pull it back out, cut the tube off to shorten it just below the point that you see the fuel on the tube – you are doing this so that you can’t run the heater so much as to completely drain your tank of fuel – you should always be left with ¼ to 1/8 of a tank for driving etc. So once your done this, fit the take-off tube and the included elbow connector along with the included small bore fuel pipe. From here I ran all the fuel pipe back to the heater inside spiral wrap tubing to essentially give a tube inside a tube for extra protection.Re-fit the fuel tank and fuel filler bolt, ensure its very secure and located correctly. Route the fuel pipe across the underside of the van using clips to secure where you can. Find a suitable place to fit the fuel filter and bolt this to the chassis – ensure it points mostly upwards to allow air to escape, continue routing the pipe until you reach a point that the fuel pump wire will reach, at this point fit the fuel pump in the same way to point upwards towards the flow (again for air removal), continue routing the pipe all the way to the heater pickup tube that you previously fitted through the floor. I routed my pump wire in with the small bore fuel pipe spiral wrapping to give it as much protection as possible.The exhaust is a bendable stainless corrugated tube, unfortunately for me it exists the heater from at the front rather than the rear (as my heater faces intake to the rear, heat output to the front – the exhaust is at the front of the heater). I mounted mine really high up between the chassis crossmember and the load area crossmember in front of the wheel arch – aim it downwards to ensure that water can’t gather in the tube and secure using a riv-nut or tec-screw into the crossmember. Do the same with the intake but route it well away from the exhaust and remember to aim to downwards to ensure no water can gather in the tubing.Make sure to seal everything underneath, especially around the 4” hole in the floor that you’ve cut – it’ll stop your van from rotting and also ensure you don’t poison yourself with exhaust fumes.Right, now the easy bit.The Wiring and Controller:Fitting the wiring is easy, you ‘ve probably already worked out that the supplied fittings are different shapes so that you can only connect the fuel pump to the …. Fuel pump and the controller to the … controller etc. At this stage you’ve already connected the pump so that is out of the way.Connect the controller to the triangle connector and locate it away from the heater outlet – this contains the thermostat so locate it mid height in the van and at a easy to view location. Next connect the live and neutral wires – I cut off the included the inline fuse on the live wire as my van is fitted with a fuseboard near my aux battery, but however you connect this be it to an aux battery or a primary battery – fit a 30amp fuse somewhere to protect the heater and battery. The heater only uses 30 amps on immediate start-up and quickly reduces to next to nothing – it is the heater plug using power to initially ignite the fuel but once it is lit then …yeah… it self-ignites using next to no power except what the fan draws (which isn’t a lot at all)Fit the hot air tube with jubilee clips to a location in the van that you like and bob is your uncle, nearly done.Here is where I slipped up, the included instructions are not correct:You first have to prime the pump, go and fill your fuel tank first. Press and hold the settings button (the spanner button on the controller) and then press the down arrow button – you should see a setting appear on the controller screen of 020 or similar – set this to 050 or 060 (this is 50 or 60 seconds) and press ok - you will hear the fuel pump clicking very rapidly until it starts pumping fuel where it will slow down. Other models to prime you have to hold the ‘ok’ and down buttons or settings and up button. (yes this isn't clear in the instructions and they contradict the information).This is done only once, once primed press the power (middle) button and glorious heat will soon start to flow from the vent. Press and hold the up and down arrows to cycle between auto mode (set the temperature on the screen) and pump/manual mode (set the pump frequency on the screen). I usually use manual mode on P01 for just ticking over in the middle of a field somewhere which gives a nice warm background heat at maximum efficiency – if I want more then hole up and down arrows and set it to 16 degrees which is my personal comfortable level (or more if you like).CONCLUSION:Loads of heat at minimal cost. Installation is not difficult as you can fit it as well as you are capable – either use the included external tank (easiest way) or plumb it into your van main tank, gives great heat output and I honestly have not noticed any draw/use of fuel using my van fuel gauge between filling the van up. It’ll run all day with little to no impact on fuel from the van tank – run it for three or four days on the trot and it’ll show – but it is really efficient and consumption is not to be worried about too much. The remote control is basic with just on, off, heat up and down – but does the job.I would certainly recommend one of these heaters, the cost of purchase is minimal and the heat output is just lovely. The inlet and exhaust ports will rot off in the end and you will have to replace the whole unit – but it’ll last three years or so in UK wet weather. Given the cost it’s a bargain – just get one!

Powerfully and fairly quiet

Sie tut was es soll funktioniert einwandfrei. Sie heizt die Luft im Bus.Nachteil nur zwei Speicherplätze für timer Funktion.