Changed out the heater core on my 2001 Ford F-350. I got two of them to replace the old ones due to they had not been off for 22 Years. They worked good. Cut the old ones off and put the new ones on. Depending on How much money you would like to spend and if I had to do it over, I would buy new hose to put Them on. Only problem I had with them or the old ones I ended up buying more than one tool to get the ends unplugged from the heater core. Ended up I built my own tool to do it with. Wasted money on buying what I thought was suppose to work.

Used on my 2002 f150 heater hoses coming out of the firewall and were very easy to install, used some dielectric grease to help installation.

Heater hose core broke on my Mazda 5 while during deliveries, purchased this, installed it and I'm back on the road. Only thing is I used extra hose clamps to make sure it was on pretty good.

Nice, it got a couple of O-rings in the inside of it - you need to take the white part to see them in place.So I removed the old ones going "the hard way" because unfortunately I did not have the tool at that moment. So here what I did it without the tool.Once I got into the cab and had access to the heater core (dash removed) I had other guy pushing the two tubes from outoutside towards my direction inside of the cab. Once I had the old quick connects at sight on my hands (with this little foam cover/seal left off the way without cutting it), I had to break the old quick connects using some pliers; as plastic was worn out it was easy to do. But, if you get the tool would not be a bad idea.The only "advantage" removing from inside the cab, is that as I mention I had the old connections on my hands, seeing what I was doing. If you do it from outside the cab, you would struggle because there is no much room to manouver with the tool, not to mention you do not really see much what you are achieving with the tool so you might play around for a little while; not really bad thing to do unless you have practice or experience doing this particular job but this was the first time I did it so.Folks, do not give me wrong, these are quick connects and they really are. Yet, they are not "quick disconnect's" they are not supposed to be anyway, right? You do not want to loose your coolant on your way ;)I will prepare a youtube thing with some pictures of all the (painful) job performed later... wanted to learn myself, to have fun with this, and did not want to pay $133 bill here in Mexico for this job done.If you want the tool, see if something like this one fits your quick connect: hope this helps.

I needed the white plastic retainer clip out of this kit. The new Dorman heater hose came with its own black retainer clip but it did not fit over the heater core tubing. It was way too tight. I had bought this kit thinking the truck might need new O-rings but instead just ended up using the new o-rings from the replacement hose in combination with this retainer clip. Oddly both parts are made by Dorman so I can't understand why the clips wouldn't have been identical. I bought 2 of these and am saving the second one for future repairs.

Just what i needed.

I wanted to bypass their T system since their setup could cause a major failure- pumping coolant out and overheating. Getting a hose to fit over their ring on heater core pipes that they strategically placed into a divot in the firewall seemed even more risky/prone to failure. This fitting let me directly attach the hose to their T "quick connect" (notice it doesn't say quick disconnect) fitting. I even ordered a fitting removal tool, but it didn't work on a couple so I took a screwdriver and broke the clip retainer on the fittings that I was replacing anyway (How does that feel GM engineer? I mean you spent how many hours figuring out how to keep us from fixing our vehicles and a non-engineer (me) took a screwdriver and screwed up all your plans in less than a minute!) Small victories, but sweet non the less. Anyway, this connector let me clip directly onto their "quick connect" T fitting. As long as it lasts as long as the first I won't have to repair this again.

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pour le chaufage pour connecter conecteur pour chaufage ford f150 2007 v8 4.6 livraison dansles temps merci

No more leaks after replacing.

Einstein's definition of insanity is to repeat the same exercise the same way and question why the results are the SAME! No sane person would remove a broken plastic (PLASTIC) fitting that failed for absolutely on good reason and THEN replace it with another!!!I like Errol's review:Erroll3.0 out of 5 stars Received as advertised.Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2016Verified PurchaseReceived as advertised.The product was OK but I ended up not using it; it is just another plastic part that might fail in the future. It was more reliable to cut the remaining plastic mating connector off the metal tube and just use a stainless steel hose clamp over the heater-hose that was slid over the metal tube."Yep, I have a 2001 Tahoe with dual zone heat & A/C. The hose I need is 'discontinued' by GM - of course it is!So, I did the math, measured everything with my calipers and ordered the Doorman 800-403 and guess what? It says that it fits my vehicle, yay! Lordco said it was a 12-week backorder for this part but I got it here overnight, yeah! Had to buy a $30 tool to remove the old one...That tool didn't work, somehow the plastic welded itself to the aluminum heater core in the back right above my tailpipe. Hmmm?Now, I'm a crack mechanic and I've installed a Torqstorm Supercharger on this Tahoe - entirely bu myself (with a bit of inspiration from YouTube!) So, a neater hose should have been a walk-in-the-park, right? WRONG!I had to hacksaw the broken bit untill it finally relinquished it's location it's dwelled in for the last 20 years. In my honesy opinion GM should be held criminally responsible for puttinf plastic between aluminum and a rubber hose."UP YOUR NOSES WITH RUBBER HOSES GMRemember I said I researched the part and so did Lordco? Well, the heater core in the REAR (REAR) rear, is 3/4" NOT 5/8" so the part I really needed is the Doorman 800-404 FML!There was no way I was simply going to order ANOTHER plastic fitting for ANOTHER $30 bucks I just did what any great mechanic would do; I spit on the 5/8ths heater hose and shoved it right onto the heater core pipe and secured it eith a screw-type hose clamp, done and DONE.Of-course I already had the 5/8" to 1/2" reducer going to the 1/2" hetater hose whick slipped onto the 1/2" aluminum heater hose going back to the front. I used a tubing cutter and chopped it off right before the factory crimp, slid the hose all the way on and then fixed that with three compression type clamps. See last picture.What a royal pain in the a&&.Thank god Doorman is there to make some stuff you just can't find; having said that you are still just replacing something that eventually WILL fail and I can say from experience that not all Doorman products are even as good as original, just available....I sincerely hope this helps you guys fix your own car without this hassle. Just break off the old fitting - no need to buy the stupid plastic removal tool(s) or the doorman fitting. Just shove your 5/8 heater hose on and clamp it up - easy peasy.The only reason that automakers use these crappy fittings is so they can just clip, clip, clip parts on and the hell with ever having to remove them. I talked with an older gentleman who told me there are Ford parts that were discontinued in as little as 4 years after manufacturing! Disposable junk is what we're buying and that is why I'm going to keep my 20 year old SUPERCHARGED Tahoe just as long as I can keep rigging it back together!AARGH!