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Your cart is empty.When an exhaust manifold fastener breaks on certain General Motors and Isuzu vehicles, repairing it conventionally usually requires significant labor, up to and including removing the cylinder head. This Dorman OE FIX repair clamp saves time by creating a seal without needing to extract the broken stud.
Brittany Puckett
2025-09-03 15:02:28
Perfect design. Very easy to install. Works exactly as it should, exhaust leak is almost un-noticeable now.
Tucker
2025-08-05 19:04:39
Well, you are reading this is probably because your Chevy sounds like a Chevy i.e. the classic header tick tick tick. I stalled this to a 2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD but it will fit basically any LS engine (5.3, 6.0, 6.2 etc). Prior to my manifold head bolts sheering off, I did not know this is actually a very common problem for LS engines... Way to go Chevy, have a known problem and still use crap manifold bolts. Its so common that Dorman has this band aid fix to save you hundreds fixing.FIRST, I want to clarify the part numbers and locations to be installed because some of the reviews are misleading. The are 2 different brackets to be used depending on which of your manifold bolt heads sheared off.Dorman 917-107 (looks completely different) - Locations to be installed is for either the drivers side rear or passengers side front.Dorman 917-142 (This product) - Locations to be installed is either the driver side rear or passengers side front.The reason is because the heads are basically the same but rotated 180 degrees. So be sure you get the correct part.Okay, now to the installation. I had BOTH rear manifold bold head sheered off, so I needed both part numbers mentioned above. But this is the installation for the passengers side rear (917-142). If this is the part you are getting you are in luck because its much easier than the 917-107. First step is the heat shield on the manifold is in the way of the bracket from mounting, but its so annoyingly close to fitting. You will have to of around 1/4"-3/8" of the heat shield. I used my compressor cutoff tool that mat quick work of it. A dremel would work well too. I suppose you could try shears, but its in a pretty awkward location. Once the cutting is done it is simply a matter of bolting down the bracket (Used anti seize) and torque to the spec in the instructions. then install the 3rd bolt that holds presses against the manifold (Use high temp loctite) and torque to spec (I think it was 18 lbs-ft).After I completed both sides and started the truck it was significantly better, but I gave and extra one flat turn on the bolt to the manifolds past the recommended torque just to give it a little extra sealing.The whole process took about an hour. Most of it was just figuring out the best way to cut the exhaust heat shield. Once that is cut the bracket goes in in around 10 minutes.Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.Tick tick tick is gone so the brackets do work. The brackets really are more expensive than they should be (around $30), but it sure beats the price of removing the head.
RV/Boat Doctor & Handyman Services
2025-08-04 15:44:19
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Jason
2025-08-01 13:23:11
Awesome solution to broken manifold bolts. This worked for my 2001 silverado 4.8 liter for the passenger rear and drivers front bolts. I ran into two minor issues, the drivers front has the hole for the coolant temp sensor, however the clip on the plug would not allign with the plug and fit through the hole so I cut it off, it's snug enough that I'm not worried about it. 2nd and harder issue is the oil dip stick tube is in the way of the passenger rear bracket, had to remove the dip stick bracket bolt just fwd of the dip stick and bend it slightly away and aft of motor so the bracket would fit. Didn't like these mods lol, but the convenience of the brackets made up for it. Pics are of the oil dip stick tube, it's basically wedged between the fwd bracket bolt and heat shield so it not going anywhere. Just be careful bending it, I used pliers to grab the tube down as far as possible and pulled out and aft. Then let the bracket bolt push it out of the way as it's tightened.
Yates24
2025-07-29 18:45:54
Perfect quick cheap fix for a farm truck. No more annoying exhaust leak!Took barely 5 minutes to install!
Khristian Welch
2025-06-28 11:54:32
Works well, feels like good quality metal and also fits on some brands of headers. Quick and straight forward install.
Chad W.
2025-06-15 11:20:56
Easily installed on the driver side front of cylinder head. Had to crank it down pretty tight with a 14mm socket but it eliminated my “tapping†manifold leak. Additionally had to use 917-107 for driver side rear or cylinder head. Really is a shame GM build quality has completely vanished….
Book Worm
2025-06-06 15:50:54
Great and innovative product! The last thing I wanted to do was take off my exhaust manifolds and try and fudge with getting the broken bolt out (I also didn't want to pay sumone $1200 or so) to do that at a shop. So I opted for this. I originally seen this type of product from KralAuto but the dorman was a bit cheaper, the only significant difference between the two brands is at the end of the "pinch" bolt. The Kral has a nut welded onto the end of the "pinch " bolt I guess to expand surface pressure, the dorman is just a straight up bolt, no nut. Either way, it took me about half hr to install, at night with flashlights (I'm impatient couldn't wait til the next day!) Some engines may need to trim the heat shield, mine on the other hand was so rusty I just literally ripped off the small piece that was in the way with my hand. The other thing that I will say is to be VERY VERY CAREFULL of your DIPSTICK TUBE! You will need to unbolt the dipstick tube bracket in order to slightly manipulate the dipstick tube in order to get the bracket bolt in. most likely like mine, the tube will have a significant amount of rust/rot where the tube meets the manifolds. Use caution while manipulating the tube!!! With that being said, got it installed and No more tickticktick!! Excellent product. Ill keep everyone posted if anything changes near future
Contre
2025-05-09 21:13:14
Bought for my 2007 Savana 4.8L, 1 bolt broke on each side (rear ones, I also bought the kit 917-107). On a full size van, the rear bolts are super easy to work on. I didn’t had any ticking noise, but only little carbon on the other side. That was more a "while I’m here" job, since I wanted to repair the floor rust. So I can’t say for sure if the kit is working 100%, but it removed the hair thick gap between the manifold and the block/gasket with the proper torque required. On this kit, the bolts are all the same length, the clamping bolt is waayyy too long, resulting in the impossibility to torque it correctly with the torque wrench because of the floor being in the way. Could be easier to install with a shorter bolt, if it was included. Would buy again, but hopefully I won’t need to haha.
Lou
2025-04-11 16:49:59
Repaired and silenced that very annoying noise issue with my 2004 Yukon exhaust manifold.
Zed
2025-04-10 12:07:43
I was sceptical of how well this was going to work. I was wrong. I have owned 7 LS based engines now and have pulled hard with them all, inevitably breaking exhaust bolts/manifolds/studs. Cutting, drilling and welding old broken bolts out is not fun, I’m pleasantly surprised how easy this was to install and how well it works. It’s a little gaudy but doesn’t interfere with access to anything under hood. For the price it’s worth a try.
Deanna Goudie
2025-01-12 12:32:42
Hubby was happy with it.
Customer
2024-11-21 12:00:44
sauver beaucoup de temps
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