I purchased these pads on the recommendation of a friend in preparation for a track day on a 2004 Yamaha R6.The difference in brake response and stopping power between these pads and the OEMs cannot be put into words. I was originally in the mindset that I needed upgraded calipers and rotors to make a stock bike track worthy, but all it took were a set of HH pads and some good street tires. Great! more money left in my pocket for track time. I was out-braking most others in my track group with confidence and even hard braking was predictable without fear of locking up the front tire. It is really great for building up your triceps too!The only issue I have is not really the fault of the pads but more with the switch on the brake lever that operates the brake light. I ride to work just about every day of the year and these pads allow the bike to stop at public road speeds with far less pull of the brake lever than before. Unless I am making a fairly fast stop from 40-50 mph, there is not enough pull on the brake lever to actuate the brake light switch. I went almost a month without realizing this until another rider pulled up next to me at a red light to let me know my brake light was "out". I tried adjusting the switch in closer to the lever stop, but no luck. Until I find a fix I am going back to the rider-school basics and am using the front and rear brakes simultaneously since the rear lamp switch works fine.Like any aggressive brake pad, these are meant to operate best at a higher temperature (not ambient, I mean hard stops on a racetrack without fading) and these will squeak when they are cold. A few hard stops from a decent speed should make it go away for a few days. The squeak on mine comes back after a few weeks of riding on the street after having done a track day. Eventually the thin film of pad material that gets cooked into the rotor during hard riding will get worn off by easy stops on the street and then it is back to pad-on-metal friction instead of pad-on-pad. For more information that you ever wanted to know on how brakes actually work, go to the StopTech Brake website and look at their technical pages. Its great reading for when you are drinking your morning coffee.Since I have had these pads installed, I have done 7 track days and 300-some days of combined commuting/canyon carving. I am more than pleased, to say the least. Thank goodness they last longer than tires do!

No issues and easy to install.

Installed on a 07 Suzuki V Strom 1000. Perfect fit and improved braking from OEM. Very pleased with the brake pads.

Great product only it did not say it was going to be an open package. Overall the brakes work well

This set will out perform the grand majority of stock rear brake pads.Low brake dustGreat street performanceQuietI ride very spirited and feel confident in the pads for the street. They modulate well and do not brake abruptly.

A+ Purchased for the rear; will buy again when it comes time for the front brakes. Excellent stopping power.

2007 Honda CB900F 919 Hornet. Beware. These are rear pads and I believe the "HH" at the end of the part number differentiates the "better" pads, from the "regular ones that you might find with a similar part number, but not the "HH" at the end. The rear pads were getting low and I found these at about $10 cheaper than ANY others at Amazon.com, anywhere else online, or locally ... $28.50. I think they have raised the price since then (mid July 2012). It's been a while since I changed brakes on any bike, but the EBC products seem to be everywhere and have good reviews. Some of the photos of the pads around the net show the line up and down, midsection of the pads, but these pads do NOT have that line on the actual pad. Be prepared to do some cleaning and to reuse the backing plates, one plastic and one metal, that are attached to the old pads. I used brake fluid cleaner to clean these parts, but just a regular cleaner and a toothbrush to clean around the piston, spring clips, etcetera. Be aware that there is a metal clip mounted on the caliper assembly mounting bracket that MUST be there when you put the new pads in. Mine had some sticky stuff on the back at one time, but it did come off and I was lucky that I saw it. The job is easy enough. Get a little bucket or something to keep the parts in. You will also need some caliper slide pin grease and some Dot 4 brake fluid. I use Loctite blue also on the caliper bolts, just in case. Take the slotted screw out of the caliper that hides the hex-head to the pin that holds the pads, and then loosen the pad rear attachment pin. I did this while the caliper was still attached to the bike. Then remove the caliper bolts and the caliper. I loosened the cap on the brake reservoir at this point and used a slotted screwdriver to gently, and easily, press the piston back into the caliper. Fortunately, no "extra" fluid had been added previously, so there was no overflowing of fluid, like if you have been topping off the fluid as the pads wore down. I then cleaned all the parts, etcetera, and installed the plastic and metal parts that were attached to the old pads, onto the new ones. I lubricated the caliper bolts with some caliper pin grease and put a drop of Loctite blue on each threaded end. I then positioned the new pads in the caliper and slipped it over the brake disk, making sure the front of each pad was positioned correctly against the front mount and that metal clip. You can easily see if they are simply by looking from either side. I know there is a torque spec for the bolts and such, but I can't seem to find it right now, sorry about that. I just did mine by feel. Once everything is buttoned back up I attached my new CTA Tools 1250 One-Man brake bleeding Kit (you can also get this product locally for about the same price as online) to the bleeder and used some Valvoline Dot 4 brake fluid (Locally it is only available labeled as Dot 4 AND Dot 3. I did visit the Valvoline site and the specs seem to exceed the manufacturer's requirements.) to purge and bleed the rear brake until the fluid ran clear. It is so clear, you can barely see it in the reservoir. While doing some research online I saw a clip, at EBC I think, that mentioned NOT overfilling the brake fluid reservoir, as it may cause a loss of braking power. I have personally never heard of this, BUT to err on the side of caution, I made sure the top of the fluid was JUST at the top fill line in the reservoir. The EBC site states that you will have a break in period of a couple of hundred miles. I can only imagine how much BETTER the brakes will be when they are broken in because they work a hundred times better than the old pads did! Be careful starting off in case something isn't just right, and double check everything in a mile or two.

Buen producto, seguro a altas temperaturas

Buena calidad

I've used these for years on my 650 Vstrom and they stop faster. They cost more than OEM brakes, but worth it. They also won't last as long, but stopping faster and not crashing is better than being cheap. Most bikes you can change the brake pads yourself. Get some caliper slide pin grease, and some copper paste to lube the back of the pads. You can lube the boots with Toyota red rubber paste.

It provide good braking grip. Satisfied

Love these pads, improved feel and power and a quick easy replacement. Best value brake system upgrade you can make.

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