Coolant overflow tank. Great part. Built well, and looks great!

This is a well made very attractive recovery tank. I rate it a 5, but due to the unu#ual contour of my fire wall, wiring,, vacuum lines, and no other place to mount it, I had to return it regretfully. I spent 5 hours trying everything to mount it but couldn’t do it. So had to return it.

I needed power steering reservoir that was not too tall, so I could mount it high enough in the engine compartment to be higher than the pump. This tank had the right dimensions. I ordered AN6 to M14 x 1.5 / AN10 to M14 x 1.5 adapters to attach the hoses and 3 x M14x1.5mm Oil Drain Plugs to fill the extra ports (all available from Amazon). I made a bracket out of aluminum to mount the tank on the fender well and drilled a 1/16" vent hole in the cap. It turned out pretty well. The only thing I do not like about the tank is that it has a bead blasted finish. I wish that it had a polished finish or at least natural, so I could polish it myself.

Surprisingly good quality for the cost. Would buy again.

Thought the construction, welds and fittings all exceeded expectations. I was putting it in a 1979 MG Roadster with a 370 hp blue print engine. I wanted something more interesting than plastic.

This is my second purchase of the same item a year apart from eachother. The price was about the same, as were all of the fittings, plugs, port threads, mounting holes, and misc. parts. It takes x4 M8 bolts or 5/8in bolts to mount it (not included) and ideally a custom bracket to attach the assembly to your vehicle unless you can find a large area with pre-existing mounting points that also line up (thats not likely to happen). I used 1/2 fuel rated high temp hose and stainless steel worm gear clamps to secure the hoses to the fittings (clamps are provided, but I used better clamps on my installation). I added an "EZ-106" 14.5mm-1.5 thread oil drain valve to the bottom of both catch cans and clamped on a clear 3/8in tube to make the drain process clean and easy. I havent yet added a clear hose to the newer catch can, but plan to soon. Inside both catch cans I added about 10-12 3M scotchbrite stainless steel scour pads to help separate/condensate the oil vapor from the PCV system on my 2012 F-150 ecoboost truck.The only complaints I have are that the interior of the container is coated with paint to help seal any weld-pinholes that may exist, and this paint coating is not oil/fuel rated and will flake off after about 9-12 months of exposure. Also, this catch can uses o-ring seals for the threaded cap and fittings/plugs that are not compatible with oil/fuel vapor, so they will eventually break down and fall apart and cause more leaks (this has already happened on my older (1year old) carch can. The o-rings can be replaced with better Viton or Nitrile (Buna-N) of the same sizes (one 3.5mmX39.7mm for the cap and seven 2.62mmX10.77mm for the fittings) to fix that issue as necessary. I suppose if you use this for a coolant overflow container, then you wouldnt have this o-ring problem or the interior paint coating/leak issue.I solved the weld-pinhole leak issue by coating the welds from inside the tank with POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer (8oz can). I only needed 20% of this sealer to coat both of my catch cans. So, after taking into account that I spent $16 on the fuel tank sealer, $30 on quality PCV hoses, $15-20 for O-rings, $15 on SS scour pads, bracket fabrication time, scrap metal, and paint, $20 on SS mounting hardware and better hose clamps, and $30 on oil drain valve kit, then you can see that it is actually better and less of a headache to just bite the bullet and buy a quality purpose built $150-$200 oil catch can kit. I can only recommend this cheaper product for use as a coolant overflow container, but even then I have no experience using it for that purpose. I would see if other reviewers had a better experience using it for coolant overflow purposes.Update: 5/5/2022I noticed a small leak from the sight gauge, so I swapped out the 1/4in. O.D. vinyl tube on the fluid level sight gauge with 1/4in. O.D. simi-clear polyethelene tube found at my local home provement store in the plumbing isle. To remove the original tubing, simply push-in the blue rim on the quick connect fittings while twisting and pulling the tube out of the fitting at the same time. Cut the new tubing the same length or slightly longer (if it doesn't fit perfectly vertical that's fine, it doesn't affect the fluid level reading). Fully push-in the tube into the fitting before giving it a pull to lock & seal the tubing in place. The polyethelene tubing is more appropriate material for this part because it is more rigid and is oil & fuel resistant. While it is not as clear as the vinyl tubing, it is clear enough to see where the fluid level is at. When I removed the original vinyl tubing it was starting to deform/degrade at the ends where it connects to the fittings, so that is why it was leaking there.

Very nice

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