Worked like it should. Leaked a little bit, just had to tighten it some more.

If you have ever changed your transmission fluid / filter you know that for some unknown but obviously sadistic reason, the vast majority of car manufactures do not have a drain plug in the transmission pan like they do for the engine. So no matter how careful you are, when you separate that transmission pan from the seal the gasket has created, you get a sloppy mess with transmission fluid spilling out multiple sides of the pan top and unless you're doing this with a large enough catch pan up close to the transmission pan, you always get a mess. Well this was my first transmission service on my current truck but I plan on keeping it for a whle so I figured it would be my first and last mess! I looked around and goofed on one trans pan with an installed drain plug as well as everything else running around $300 for their "aftermarket" pans. I'm not afraid to spend money on my truck but I could not see that yet so I figured I'd pay $6.81 for this drain plug kit and give it a try. No you're going to also need some RTV sealant (just to be sure) of no leaks because we are talking about $2,000 for a new transmission so call it a total cost of around $12 for both. The biggest thing to remember is internal clearance. If you make sure the internal nut is snug and then measure from the bottom of that nut to the top of the drain spout and you get a measurement of about 3/4 of an inch height for the plug. Then look at the bottom of your transmission and see if you have a good choice for a location where there is some room and using something straight like a metal ruler, take a depth measurement by measuring from the flat surface where you bolt the transmission pan down to that float metal ruler and record the measurement. Now get a good reference point for that same location in the transmission pan and measure the depth of the pan and record that measurement. Now you do a little simple math and subtract the first measurement (protrusion depth of the transmission) from the depth of the transmission pan at the same location. If you still have at 3/4inch or more of space left over, the plug should fit with no problems. If you do not, “shop around” for another location and repeat the measurements until you find a location with enough space. Once you’ve found your sweet spot, mark it on the transmission pan and drill your 1/2inch diameter hole in it. Remember that you’re drilling through the equivalent of sheet metal so once the bit starts to go through, it is highly likely that your bit is going to catch and try to break your wrist so be careful. Now use a metal file to smooth the area and remove all burrs and then set the pan on a flat metal surface and use a hammer to lightly “beat” around the hole to make sure it is level as the drill bit may have slightly bent the pan. Now take the securing nut and both plastic washers off. If you’re going to use RTV like I did then put a small bead on the metal of the drain plug, lay the first plastic washer on that and then lay another thin bead of RTV on top of that plastic washer and insert it through the transmission pan. Now repeat the RTV process on the inside surface on the pan and then the second plastic washer. Now screw on the securing nut and finger tighten it following the RTC instructions with a drying period before you tighten it down for the final time. There is no torque listed for the plug but think of it like a spark plug, you want it tight but you don’t want to completely crush the plastic washers and squeeze out all of the RTV you just laid down to seal it. If you can let it cure for the full time listed on the RTV and then you’re good to go with a transmission pan that does not create a mess. This was a pretty easy install and I’ll still be looking but after I put everything back together and drove the truck about 10 miles, everything is still clean with no leaks. I highly recommend this product.

Installed on my 85 K5 BlazerGood product, however the plastic washer it comes with did not look like something I wanted to depend on to seal my pan.I picked up 2 banjo copper crush washers to seal it to the pain so that I could get the setup nice and tight.Then I removed the plug o-ring and got a small 7/16 copper crush washer.Now I have a peace of mind and no leaks.Fluid changes and filter changes will be much easier, solid investment.

Simple but effective Trans Pan Drain Plug.A couple things that make it perfect1) Deburr the 1/2 hole you drill in the pan.2) Use Blue Loctite Medium Thread Lock-this will prevent the larger plug portion from becoming lose.Make sure you also use a 3/4 wrench to hold the large portion from becoming loose when you loosen the 7/6" plug to drain. Make sure threads are clean and dry. Apply and tighten them very snung. No need to worry about cracking the plastic washers Why?? because you purchased:3) Also purchase DORMAN Part# 097-021CD-rubber/steel 1/2'" oil pan gaskets. Toss the plastic washers. This way, once you apply the blue medium thread lock-you can really snug the plug up as it should be. Use a reg length 3/8 drive ratchet/3/4 deep on the inside nut, and wrench on the outside. Snug very tight-but don't over do it.Should be good!Ed.Also don't over tighten the smaller drain plug bolt/w rubber o-ring. Snug-but don't over do it.

Valued purchase

Easy install & works perfectly!

Drain was added to simplify future fluid changes. The drain installed well and has no leaks at this time. The instructions enclosed state to " tighten the wing nut hand tight only" there is no wing nut and I chose to securely tighten the drain plug even though it is a small hex head. Should make next fluid change much easier.

Great item!

Worked as it should